Jump to content
SAU Community

Thanks Hyperdrive!

rev210

By rev210,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted
Datalogit worked no problem'o. Must have been a newer version of the software Gav. It's all good, thanks for the ecu by the way mate :D

No sweat Rev

btw - did Lumpy or Ken confirm that it's NOT the Pro version? I was never sold to me as such (nor did I sell it as a Pro version), but it has the "PFC PRO" sticker on it?

Interesting...

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted

driver,

front pipes and 3 inch exhaust, Power FC, Tomei 260deg 9.15mm lift cams, 10/11psi of boost, Blitz pods (although they are sucking hot air at the moment). Although it doesn't alter the dyno reading the car has also got lightweight Trust pulleys and has had the belt driven fan replaced with a 16inch electric thermo fan.

The factory engine and turbos have done over 236,000kms, so it's pretty good for a grandad engine.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

rev210,

wot your plans for the future for the gtr? do you plan to go further with the development etc and if so wot did you have in mind. Cos there alot of potental there your yet to tap into but with a tired motor i can understand not pushing it to far. the beauty of the rb26 is that it does cost alot to really get some awesome rewards. Hope to see you round soon .

pete

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi pete,

There is an oil cooler and filter relotaion kit waiting to go in (maybe today) to get some of the heat out of the motor and help it live a little longer. It's a nice kit only $600 or so new with stainless braided lines and 15 row oil cooler.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
Hi pete,

There is an oil cooler and filter relotaion kit waiting to go in (maybe today) to get some of the heat out of the motor and help it live a little longer. It's a nice kit only $600 or so new with stainless braided lines and 15 row oil cooler.

cool sound like a good idea ,i been looking for a desent oil cool kit for awhile can i ask where you got it and wot make it is, wot sign are you using to tell you the motor is tired may i ask (low oil pressure, or compression etc) do you hope to rebuild soon.

pete :rolleyes:

ha are you going to this xmas do on thursday cos it would be cool to catch up with a few of you guys for a beer and a chat .two more days and i'm back on dry land woohoo :headspin:

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Pete,

The oil cooler is one I bought from Sal at 'Shift' over east ( one of the SAU advertised sponsors ). Worked out to around $625 delivered. So far the only measure of how tired the motor is is the kms. I haven't got around to measure the compression yet. Oil pressure is normal.

I am going to try and get to the christmas bash but, this week is a killer for me work wise so I won't know till very close to the day.

Steve,

I reckon Aidwin secretly wants to kill his turbo's tho so he has a good excuse to get bigger ones I bet :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 only blows hot air

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • Duncan
      Wires cut underneath shifter cover

      By Duncan · Posted

      You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • TurboTapin
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • SeanR32GtSt
      R32 only blows hot air

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...