Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The bigger the dump/exhaust, the less backpressure and more power potential :P

Ok, so back to the nothing on low revs with RB20 thing, wouldnt back pressure help off boost? Or does having the turbo there do what the exaust would normaly do on an N/A car?

Also have any of you lot had problems with 550cc injectors??? (mate with 1g) has major cruise tune issues, and it would seem its because the injectors are far too big, the hit maybe 40% dudy cycle on 25psi on a freezing nite, and its not running lean at all.

Also have any of you lot had problems with 550cc injectors???  (mate with 1g) has major cruise tune issues, and it would seem its because the injectors are far too big, the hit maybe 40% dudy cycle on 25psi on a freezing nite, and its not running lean at all.

Kind of along the question I had... and goes with the GTR injector topic above. Would 440cc's be to big for the stock computer to handle with some sort of fuel controller (already have an S-AFC)? I think I'm sold on the PFC idea finally vs going with microtech like I was thinking before... but with the turbo I have now GTR injectors would be a nice safety factor to have once I get the turbo rebuilt and pushing more than .4bar.

Kind of along the question I had... and goes with the GTR injector topic above.  Would 440cc's be to big for the stock computer to handle with some sort of fuel controller (already have an S-AFC)?  I think I'm sold on the PFC idea finally vs going with microtech like I was thinking before... but with the turbo I have now GTR injectors would be a nice safety factor to have once I get the turbo rebuilt and pushing more than .4bar.

My experience has been that you can get enough fuel out of it with an SAFC (or similar). It's tight and you have to compromise on the ignition timing, but that's normal.:(

Well i think i killed another RB20 today at Winton:(

This time it wasnt the poor RB20s fault though...34degree day so wound the boost back to 10psi, but that was never going to stop the bonne lining from catching fire and starting an under bonnet BBQ:(

:) Im all for sharing the good and the bad news:thumbsup:

... so note to ppl driving there cars hard at the track, consider removing the bonnet lining...especially if its 12 years old and starting to perish, also no doubt has a degree of oil etc from fumes etc etc....

The old RB20 was going top guns up until that point, even with only 10psi:)

Did you change all your fuel line hoses??

When I had the RB20 out I noticed all the hoses (little ones around the fuel rail and under the fuel filter) had big nasty looking cracks in them. I really can't believe they weren't leaking. Maybe they were.

Any damage to paint work and the like Roy?

Damn.. I really feel for you dude.. :)

Nah, definitely not leaking fuel lines.

You can tell by the blistered paint on the bonnet that the fire was above the turbo....so that crappy lining has dropped and came in contact with the turbo or it got so hot that it just caught alight:confused:

I think the guards are ok, but the bonnet has seen better days, and some engine bay wiring needs replacing. It seems the loom has been damaged as everything is dead, and the starter doesnt kick over etc etc

Could have been much worse, the track safety guys were champions, they were onto it straight away:thumbsup:

Car was going good, then i smelt something as i drive with the heater on high, so some fumes started coming into the cabin, shut the car down straight away, then as i coasted around smoke started to pour out of the bonnet, so pulled over and the fire crew came and put out the the fire in my engine bay plus the grass fire i started...woops:)

Looked way tough:thumbsup: Forget graphics, real flames and smoke look way cooler

haha. :)

So about that rb25 head I saw you enquiring about in the for sale section the other week.

If the fire has done any damage to the motor (doubt it) then I guess its time for you to head out and grab yourself an rb25de, drop a thicker head gasket in it and enjoy the same amount of power on around 5psi less boost at a lower rpm :)

LOL...i like how you think.

Basically ill wait til my sunstroke passes then ill have a look at it. I wanted to slowly build up an engine on the side, say $750-1000 /month, but this changes things...

Thanks to Geoff too for being good enough to let me store the car in his garage until i suss out what im doing...and to Jack for the tow:thumbsup:

And fark the Vic Track Gods who have cursed my car since crossing the border, 3-4 years of abuse in NSW without a hiccup, 6 months in Vic and drama after drama...LOL, should have known this was on the cards when i drove down to start the new job. Got a flat, then the space saver went flat, 18 hours to get from Syd to Vic:(

It all good though, got a VB in my new stubbie holder, and who knows what Santa may have for me...ive been good this year:)

No good Roy, good too see your keeping happy minded about it. Cause yeah, thats some funny stuff up there! You need to get like a drift flame, thats not a drift flame, but a track flame.... if ya get my drift.

So yeah two things. 1st, Santa dont exist man, sorry to say, but he aint getting you nothing.

And yeah, Victorian air, its no good. Come to Sunny Qld, its tops!

And so we are keeping on topic, if the RB20 lives! It it the greatest motor in the world!!! :)

Ouch, bad luck Roy, which black cat did you run over while driving under a ladder on Friday the 13th? Tip, wash the white stuff off real fast, it makes a mess of all sorts of plastic and painted things. I think you need a GTR bonnet and grill, might even find a silver one that doesn't need painting.

Now I know why I like low/rear mount turbos:cheers:

...

Now I know why I like low/rear mount turbos:cheers:

:werd:

Thing is i knew better. I didnt drive the car at a few Syd track days because of the shielding issue. But a few ppl/workshops kept telling me i was paranoid, so all the fibreglass wrap and alloy sheet sit under my bed with thefcatch can and painted rocker covers, ready to go on when i took my holidays....oh well ill be back on my soap box on this issue:(

Back to my original school of thought, you are crazy do drive with a high mount without a lot of shielding...if ppl try to tell you different, and show you a bunch of cars with bare manifolds / housings etc etc, do not listen, it CAN happen, and wiull happen. They have been lucky rater then me unlucky that this sort of thing happens:(

Geez mate, very sorry to hear.

If you need any wiring, I have my spare motor at home with most of the wiring for injector harness etc, its yours if you need it no probs

Bad Luck mate, they say bad luck comes in three's so hopefully thats all for now

Regards, Chris

P.S - dump pipe flange has been made, being done after chrissie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...