Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Just wondering if you know why my R33 is making grinding noise when the clutch is fully pressed. This occurs especially in the morning or whenever the engine is cold. I can feel the vibration through the gearknob. But once the car is warm enough, ie, after 2-5 mins, the noise disappear. Spoke to a mechanic and was told that it could be the springs aroundthe clutch are worn and should not cause any problem as long as the clutch is still biting. The clutch still feels very tight & biting,.

Any idea? I just bought the car last month, so I don't know the service history.

Any help is appreciated

Thanks

Grinding noise when clutch is in sounds like the throwout bearing. I've never heard them grind though - just a horrible squeal - but a grind could be the bearings packing it in.

You'll have to get it looked at though as it doesn't sound right.

i occasionally get a weird grinding/ whirring noise after selecting reverse with the clutch pedal in (disengaged), it stops once i the clutch is engaged. has done a few times after installation and appears to be lessening but i can never make it do it on demand, seems strange for an otherwise quiet and well operating gearbox

  • 4 weeks later...

Mine was doing the same thing last winter but has gone away for awhile.

Since the weather has warmed up it hasnt been an issue. Im pretty sure its the throw-out bearing also.

As long as the clutch still works ok you will be fine for awhile, you will know if it ceases up :)

I'd say it's the spiggot bush and the reason i'd say this is that I noticed on the weekend that my car made this noise about 10x (when clutch is in selecting a car, noise stops when clutch pedal is released) and I had the exact same noise/feeling about 2yrs ago and it was the spiggot bush that I got replaced (with a new clutch at the same time).

From memory its like a $15 part but requires a day of labour to get the gearbox in/out and not much more time to swap over a new clutch. The noise is extremely irritating/embarressing though, pity it costs so much to fix such a cheap part.

I was under the impression the the spigot bush or bearing was always spinning whether clutch is engaged or disengaged. It should be something like your carrier bearing (throwout). Don't let people fool you coz if you smash one of these and you are behind someone at the lights, bang...clutch engages and you go flying into the person in front. Dunno bout you but that seems fairly serious to me.

Spigot bush or bearing is only a few dollars. Labour on remove and refit G/box should only be around $300. That's not being friendly either. Some will be cheaper. You should preplace the clutch while doing any of this work unless the plate is 6 months old or less.

  • 1 year later...

im having the same problem, but it only happens when im boosting.

So, if i was to get a new clutch im looking at 15 for new Spigot Bush, 300 for labour and the price of a new clutch hmmm

Edited by snatCh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
×
×
  • Create New...