Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im really starting to think about purchasing a skyline most likely a r33 gts-t or gts.

I just need help on how much the insurance would cost BECAUSE im only 18 and had my licence for only 6 months?

And do most skyline owners have comprehensive insurance (for obvisous reasons)? or just third party ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59266-help-with-insurance-etc/
Share on other sites

theres are several insurance threads

do a search

you may find insurance maybe quite high due to you only being 18 with a skyline

however, try "famous insurance", i got a freak premium which is very very low

0%, SYD, GTT .. under $2.7k prem + other standard costs

i had a skyline when i was 18 and on red Ps and had no problem with police or killing myself. It was actually my second car.

i just got a tracking alarm, and third party property for $660 from just cars.

if you want one and have the $$ get it just be careful anything can pop out on the road in front of you (including police)

its best to take part in a defensive driving course, which is usually an eye opener for an inexperienced driver.

i dislike the 'adults' thats whinge like a little girl about this kiind of thing, they watch the news too much...

i would say their whinging is pretty reasonable.

if i was older and say had a family i sure as hell would complain about p platers. and more importantly the government which is the source of all these p plater problems.

imagine the worry every time u let a family member borrow a car when u know they have a statistically high chance of getting wiped out.

(i am a p plater.)

Can people PLEASE stop blaming the government. Blame no one, accidents happen, no ones a "perfect" driver hence why there are speed limits so people can drive more in control but so there is less chance of crashing

Why do you think the RTA brought in the P2's ? So people who drove stupid would lose their license as they still did not have 12 demerit points for another 2 years.

I am 18 and yes I love my cars, I am totally opposed to banning high-powered vehicles for slightly younger drivers. There's idiots on the road, statistics don't lie. A large majority of people are under 25 (particularly male) are at least THREE times more likely to crash. Im not saying P-platers are idiots, but the stereotypical person see's a P plater accident and claims they should all have more experience. Therefore, all P-platers get slapped hard for insurance because of the stereotypes.

This then leads to insurance companies having to play the probably game with people under 25 who haven't driven much especialy high powered cars.

A mate of mine is an idiot when it comes to driving, he consistently drives out of his limits in shit cars and in the last year has written off two cars. He still has not learnt his lesson but nags his mates who own rotaries and turbo'd cars to be able to drive them. They say no funnily enough.

imperium, I know you may think your the best driver but we are all improving the more we drive. I don't know whether you have your CAMS or anything so I'm not bashing your driving skills but honestly, do an advanced driving course if you are serious about wanting a turbo'd car. They're only $300, it may save you and even your mates life one day.

Good luck with finding your new car, as for insurance I would stronly recommend Just Cars 3rd Party Fire and Theft - However the payout for theft is weak (about 1/3 of actual car's value

Yeah i was definately going to go on the advanced driving courses, do u use your own car with them or the companies ?

Yeah i know im not the best driver in the world but reading some thread (like the EVLR34 thread) has really opened my eyes when driving over the speed limit etc. All i can say is im a sensible driver... thx leb and everyone else for the advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...