Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i'm tossing up between the r33 and r32, did some research on the r33's, now for the r32's, i was wondering what kinda power figures and quarter mile times a lightly modded r32 is capable of?

mods would include, pod, front mount, full exhaust, and a tune, and boosted on the standard turbo, a few ppl have been telling me that the rb20's in standard trim dont have much torque, would this kinda of set up help much with the torque issue? cause i like my cars with some torque and if the r32's dont fill my needs then i'll just spend a bit more and get the r33, will be waiting for ur advice guys, thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59283-info-on-lightly-modded-r32s/
Share on other sites

RB20's have no torque (compared with a RB25). I went with a R32 because it looks better.

Generally speaking Skylines are very robust performance cars, I guess the thing to look out for it the condition of the car (seats, carpet, steering wheel, how the gearbox feels, how dirty the motor is, how it sounds, window and door seals etc...)

yeah,i know an importer that would sell an r32 gtst w pod,hks ssqv,coilovers,r33 gtR buckets,75000ks...the one with the sunroof,also got a veilside front bar, new midnight blue paintjob and r32 gtr rims for 13,you know,for that price,youd save alot off the r33s price already,spend the difference,unless alot of bodywork done,r33s jus commodore anyway

everyone knows an importer or a friend of a friend who sells R32 for that price, but the reality is that there are costs involved in getting a car complied and on the road...

For a decent R32, you are looking at spending at least 15k.

nemz: don't mean to offend - this may be a bargain R32, but I have just seen so many similar posts - but have never seen a decent R32 for under 15.

Things to look out for: check windows, check wheel arches for rust, service history, interior condition, rubber in wheel arches (burnouts)...

Have a full mechanical insspection done including compression test!

they are 89 models though,the only problem i had was stock bov leaking boost back through plumbback,got a new one and its running fine,i really diddnt know i could get such a good example for 11,3,gave me a kakimoto exhaust 3" all the way,even had coloured drink holders lol

When i first got my R32 i did some basic mods(ehxaust, intercooler, boost and tune) which it made 190 rwkw, and ran 12.9 @117 mph on street 17" tyres. The mods didnt cost much at all ( around $1500) and left me with a close to stock 12 sec street car.

well either way dude,im not here to criticise you,nor you me,its beside the point,im sure there are alot of rip offs out there,maby the clock was wound back,but its still got original timing belt,the water pump dosent need changing,lets say it did ....whats an average for aussie conditions...18oooks a year x 15 years,thats 220,000 ks or so,what turbo engine would be running perfect after that? and if it has done over 150ooo ks im happy its running the way it is,for 11000 youd expect things to stuff up,ive had it for a year now and the only problem was that bov.

i've been looking around and its true that r32's in decent nick are really hard to find for under 15g, i've been looking at both the r32 and 33 and the r33 only seems to be a few more grand, not that much difference

on another note, about the km's issue, if its got an aftermarket speedo with the 180km plus speedo, this wouldnt be the correct km's reading right? it would be the reading from when the new speedo was put it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...