Jump to content
SAU Community

info on lightly modded r32's


Recommended Posts

ok i'm tossing up between the r33 and r32, did some research on the r33's, now for the r32's, i was wondering what kinda power figures and quarter mile times a lightly modded r32 is capable of?

mods would include, pod, front mount, full exhaust, and a tune, and boosted on the standard turbo, a few ppl have been telling me that the rb20's in standard trim dont have much torque, would this kinda of set up help much with the torque issue? cause i like my cars with some torque and if the r32's dont fill my needs then i'll just spend a bit more and get the r33, will be waiting for ur advice guys, thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB20's have no torque (compared with a RB25). I went with a R32 because it looks better.

Generally speaking Skylines are very robust performance cars, I guess the thing to look out for it the condition of the car (seats, carpet, steering wheel, how the gearbox feels, how dirty the motor is, how it sounds, window and door seals etc...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah,i know an importer that would sell an r32 gtst w pod,hks ssqv,coilovers,r33 gtR buckets,75000ks...the one with the sunroof,also got a veilside front bar, new midnight blue paintjob and r32 gtr rims for 13,you know,for that price,youd save alot off the r33s price already,spend the difference,unless alot of bodywork done,r33s jus commodore anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

everyone knows an importer or a friend of a friend who sells R32 for that price, but the reality is that there are costs involved in getting a car complied and on the road...

For a decent R32, you are looking at spending at least 15k.

nemz: don't mean to offend - this may be a bargain R32, but I have just seen so many similar posts - but have never seen a decent R32 for under 15.

Things to look out for: check windows, check wheel arches for rust, service history, interior condition, rubber in wheel arches (burnouts)...

Have a full mechanical insspection done including compression test!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they are 89 models though,the only problem i had was stock bov leaking boost back through plumbback,got a new one and its running fine,i really diddnt know i could get such a good example for 11,3,gave me a kakimoto exhaust 3" all the way,even had coloured drink holders lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When i first got my R32 i did some basic mods(ehxaust, intercooler, boost and tune) which it made 190 rwkw, and ran 12.9 @117 mph on street 17" tyres. The mods didnt cost much at all ( around $1500) and left me with a close to stock 12 sec street car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well either way dude,im not here to criticise you,nor you me,its beside the point,im sure there are alot of rip offs out there,maby the clock was wound back,but its still got original timing belt,the water pump dosent need changing,lets say it did ....whats an average for aussie conditions...18oooks a year x 15 years,thats 220,000 ks or so,what turbo engine would be running perfect after that? and if it has done over 150ooo ks im happy its running the way it is,for 11000 youd expect things to stuff up,ive had it for a year now and the only problem was that bov.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've been looking around and its true that r32's in decent nick are really hard to find for under 15g, i've been looking at both the r32 and 33 and the r33 only seems to be a few more grand, not that much difference

on another note, about the km's issue, if its got an aftermarket speedo with the 180km plus speedo, this wouldnt be the correct km's reading right? it would be the reading from when the new speedo was put it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc.  What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?
    • OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
    • Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go.   Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is.  I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though.   Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past.   I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset. 
    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
×
×
  • Create New...