Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at a new boost controller after my second hand Greddy crapped itself.

In particular I want an EVC that allows me to spike the boost down low to get on boost quicker then return to normal controlling functions of an EVC from then on.

With a phnumatic system this can be achieved and many do it.

I've actually never seen or heard of this feature being available in an EVC till I read about the "Offset function' in the new HKS EVC IV.

check it out: www.hksusa.com

Has anyone used this or someone having experience with the EVC IV please tell me exactly what this "offset function" does?

Apparently its different from the older HKS evc 2 and 3 that purely looked after boost level stability.

It can apparently control boost response as well.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Sebaz

I have one and have had the boost curve plotted on a dyno. It basically looks the same as what a bleeder does (I had the bleeder curve plotted on the dyno as well). The boost rises fast, goes over the target boost slighly then settles back down at the set boost. Same response as a critically damped second order control system.

Really easy to set-up as well. Just two identical runs in learn mode.

The EVC II and III are almost identical to the VI apart from the dial..

The offset function starts at 100. If you wanted it to spike slightly wind it down under 100 and try it. If you don't want it to spike (what it's really used for) set it over 100.

What I would do if I was you would be to use the pass mode. There is a 4 wire plug at the back, 2 of these wires when crossed trigger the pass mode. This is setup with a certain "overboost" setting, and for how many seconds it goes.

Just wire up a switch. (work out the 2 wires..) and then hit the button on take off and have it set for 2 seconds or something..

I had a button on my gear knob.. but going from 12psi to 18psi by accident while passing.. can get hairy. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...