Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when you say back into the bulkhead, where do you mean?

As far as i can tell, this is the only rail damage:

11060DSC01048_Custom_-med.JPG

Lower Radiator Support:

11060DSC01049_Custom_-med.JPG

Shot from the front:

11060DSC01089-med.JPG

And one more thing.. these cars are bloody heavy!! Had to push it up the hill into the garage yesterday..

If you want any more pictures let me know..

-Patrick

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The idea is basically this:

I'll strip the front of the car back, guards, lights, cooler, radiator, air-con, oil cooler etc, then assess the damage, if it looks like it really needs a bench (which i think it does) i will get it done by the pros.

They can do the radiator support and chassis rail and i will bolt the car back together..

-Patrick

It also needs a new set of rear discs.. I think someone did an absolute monster burn out in this thing - extreme brake dust on rear rims, rear discs are ~3mm worn on each side!!

Pic:

11060DSC01092-med.JPG

I'll get a better picture of this once the wheels are off and the car in the air..

-Patrick

Update:

Today i removed

Headlights

Indicators

Air conditioning condenser

Radiator (bloody hard to get out)

Bottom radiator support definitely needs to be replaced. It is bent in to within 20mm of the engine fan. LH Chassis rail is straight, RH has been bent diagonally in and up by around 25mm. The area where the intercooler piping returns towards the plenum is where most of the damage is, although this pipe does not appear to have been damaged. The battery platform is still in the right place.

Unfortunately it looks like the rear turbo has been spitting out some oil.. not a great deal, but there is some in the piping from this turbo.

I have no pictures at the moment, my mate wanted his digital camera back for christmas.

-Patrick

Did a compression test today after cleaning out all the water from the spark plug holes..

1: 120psi

2: 120psi

3: 105psi

4: 115psi

5: 115psi

6: 105psi

Remember that compression test results are dependent both on the type of compression tester used and the speed of crank, so these results should be taken as an indication only.

Overally I am quite happy with what this suggest: No major internal engine problems with the pistons, rings and valve seating.

A question for you guys, this car is currently running NGK R number 9 spark plugs. Another forum member has suggested NGB BCPR7ES plugs, does anyone know if these will be ok, or do i need a colder heat rating?

Also, when i had power to the car today i checked out the boost controller - the two settings currently programmed are 1.2 bar (~17.5psi) and 1.4 bar (~20.5psi).

Apart from this I cleaned a rear wheel today... It took about 5 hours with ~1600psi of high pressure cleaner and a whole bottle of wheel cleaner. I want to hurt whoever let these wheels get this dirty!!

Any comments welcome,

-Patrick

Did a compression test today after cleaning out all the water from the spark plug holes..

1: 120psi

2: 120psi

3: 105psi

4: 115psi

5: 115psi

6: 105psi

Remember that compression test results are dependent both on the type of compression tester used and the speed of crank, so these results should be taken as an indication only.

Overally I am quite happy with what this suggest: No major internal engine problems with the pistons, rings and valve seating.

A question for you guys, this car is currently running NGK R number 9 spark plugs.  Another forum member has suggested NGB BCPR7ES plugs, does anyone know if these will be ok, or do i need a colder heat rating?

Also, when i had power to the car today i checked out the boost controller - the two settings currently programmed are 1.2 bar (~17.5psi) and 1.4 bar (~20.5psi).

Apart from this I cleaned a rear wheel today... It took about 5 hours with ~1600psi of high pressure cleaner and a whole bottle of wheel cleaner.  I want to hurt whoever let these wheels get this dirty!!

Any comments welcome,

-Patrick

Hello,

your compression seems too low? isnt 130-150 correct?

Also, you sure the boost controller is Bar ?? Or is it kg/cm2?

1kg/cm2 is 14.2psi.

Petar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...