Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to start this thread as a list of where we can look / go to buy parts, or more importantly, performance parts for skylines in Queensland.

I'm supprised this thread does not exist already, please direct me to it if there is one, search did not find anything.

I'll get things started with a few I have found (not necessarly recomending);

1) NENGUN Performance - www.nengun.com

2) PERFECT RUN - www.perfectrun.com.au

3) ASIAN AUTO SPARES - SLacks Creek QLD, PH: 3208 0133

4) AUTOBARN - www.autobarn.com.au

5) CES RACING SYSTEMS - Meadowbrook QLD, PH: 3200 2333

6) EBAY - www.ebay.com.au (I avoid if possible)

7) MSI Racing - www.msiracing.com.au

8) Hardcore Racing Components - Slacks Creek QLD, ph: (07) 3299 4344

9) Extreme Motor Sports Pty Ltd. - Northgate, ph: (07) 3630 4377

10) Advanced Performance Centre - Underwood QLD, ph: (07) 3341 7223

11) Mercury Motorsport Pty Ltd - Wilston QLD, ph: (07) 3352 3363

12) Trackside Performance & Mechanical - Brendale QLD ph: (07) 3205 7707

13) Millennium Motorsports - Tingalpa QLD ph: (07) 3348 2755

14) 999 Automotive - Coopers Plains QLD, ph: (07) 3272 9992

So what do you know? Where do you go? Who stocks performance parts? Where do you get your performance parts from? Web sights, stores, workshops, whatever.

Personally, I like places where I can wonder in and get my grubby little fingers all over the parts, and have a chat to someone who knows what their on about before I buy anything. Obviously you cant do that over the net.

Cheers all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59615-where-to-buy-performance-parts/
Share on other sites

Ive used DK at geebung cause its close to work.... They have fixed a few bit and pieces for me...

They went to the trouble of finding australian delivered parts for my old Hr31 like the coolent temp sensor is the same as a 96 model maxima... Maxmia one cost $60. Import the real deal from japan $370....

So i was happy with the extra effort.... Thumbs up....

Also dont forget "ARE" at Brendale... For the best quality intercoolers and piping in Australia.

"ARE" also built me a custom alum radiator and craig davis thermo fan for my old girl too....

Custom mounting brackets and all, very very high quality work... Second to none...

Anything to do with piping, intercoolers and radiators call Richard @ ARE

Unit 11/ 60 Kremzow Rd Brendale 4500 (07) 3205 4620

Yes ARE way too pricey...can get the same stuff for cheaper...for such a small business with little overheads their stuff is exxy. Anyone can do intercooler and piping work as good as theirs just takes time and effort....most of which no one is willing to do themselves.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...