Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's up everyone? I have researched quite a bit on this subject and have found SK is a very informative rb guru... especially on the subject of camshafts...

My current situation....

95 240sx SE

SII rb25det (production date: 8/96) -installed

ACT 6 puck clutch

Hybrid SE FMIC

Nismo FPR

Nismo Thermostat

PE timing belt

New water pump

Fabricated Turbo elbow

3" downpipe

3" test pipe

3" blitz nurspec R catback

Walbro 255 fuel pump

FAL 220's

I'm almost finished with this swap... When i removed the CAS... i discovered the bracket to the CAS was snapped in half and my exhaust camshaft was broken...

So this brings me to the market of upgrading my cams... Not looking to go into the high revs so i'm not interested in replacing my valve train or grinding the head. I'd like to keep my VVT as well!

SK you have suggested numerous times that a 256* cam is ideal for mild street upgrade which is what i'm looking for... nothing above 9.00mm lift as well.

I've shopped around and there are basically 2 companies i have found that supply what i need... www.takakaira.com and www.greenline.com

takakaira.com supplies HKS cams for the rb25 at $351(US) a piece

-256* 8.8mm IN / 256* 8.8mm or 260* 9.00mm EX

greenline.com supplies Tomei Poncams for the rb25 at $573.64(US) IN/EXpackage

-256* 8.5mm IN/ 256* 8.5mm EX

All together greenline.com is going to save me atleast $200 extra... and since i have already stated that i'm not interested in grinding my head or replacing the valve train... i'm looking for opinions on which would be the most wise decision. I'm looking to *eventually* reach 300rwhp... this car is going to be my daily driver and reliability is a must!!! Basically i'd like it set up for mostly street and occasional track days.

In advance thanx for your input gentlemen... i'm located in the states and there are very few knowledgable with this type of information.. appreciate any kind of help i can get.

-Z1nk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...