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Need to sell my car: this car has made 540Hp over 400 KW on 18psi

The car is Black in colour with Red leather interior 2 recaro bucket seats, Sports steering wheels with lap timer, Apexi Rev/speed meter, Sound System with Kenwood 7" DVD player with TV recievers Eboost Gauge and 2 autometer gauges in a dual gauge holder mounted on the pillar.

Performance

RB30 Bottem End, Wiseco forged pistons, Gabbless Rings, steel rods, arp bolts all round, O ringed, and reciever groved ceramic coated chambers and pistons, Nismo Racing Oil pump, Nismo Water pump , Head has been ported with HKS Steel Values and Springs, GTR style head, Copper head gasket, Tomei Stage 2 Cams and gears, This engine was built 1000kms ago with paper work and warranty Built to handle 700Hp + @flywheel

Turbo: T66 Garrett 900HP Turbo dual ball bearing rollers, external Tial wastegate with Stainless steel manifold. Large Front mounted intercooler with Blitz blow of Value. 3inch Stainless Steel exhaust system.

Fuel System : 950cc SARD injectors Malpasi Fuel Reg, Bosch 044 fuel pump with surge tank GTR in tank pump working as Lift pump.

Ignition: M & W ignition pack, external coil pack 10mm custom made Spark plug leads.

ECU : Microtech LTX12 computer requires a 3 bar Map senor to run more than 18psi.

Microtech Dash

Exterior: 400R side skirts and rear bar , Drift wing (flat boot)

Tyres 20” x 8.5 Front 20” x 10.5 rear Kaokic rims

Brakes: Cross Drilled and slotted brakes all round.

Suspension : Tein HA adjustable suspension

$35000

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59778-r33-s2-1996-400kw-on-18psi/
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    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
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