Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

i know i am a noob and u shud no 2 - so be gentle wit me please :cheers:

Now i have had a 95 r33 gts-25t for about 6 months and have not done anything to it besides abit of accessorising and audio - nothing performance wise.

Now u may have seen my last post about BOV and why i should and why i shouldnt - thats all part of the same overall question i have , what should be the first things that should be modified to add abit of performance ?

Now my goal is to have a more then average skyline - but i wont front im no racer - im no drifter, i enjoy a bit of sideways just liek the next guy or gal but im not gona gear my car for that specific reason.

What steps or actions should i be taking to acheive a more then average skyline?

(as in cat back exhaust or wot have you first then work on intake)

ALSO by the by

servicing skylines - can it be done at any competent mechanic? or should be soley touched by a import mechanic or sports car mechanic? i know theres that motul oil thats gold and i doubt normal mechanics would use it.

AND

Im in sydney blacktown/castle hill way - who is a good automechanic i should be going to around this area? and more importantly who should i be staying away from?

THanks alot for this guys and girls - by the way this site its fantasmic, im learning more and more with every thread i read here.

Thanks guys , peace

well whilst ur car isn't to far from stock mechanics own't make a difference, find a guy u like who appreciates ur car, and find out what oils etc... he uses, stick with him, or if u use 1 workshop for all ur mods, use them

exhaust, frount mount intercooler, pod or upgraded panel filter should definitely be ur first plan of attack, followed by a simple boost controller up to 12 psi (ish)

the computer and that's about as far as u can go before u need bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump, cams, AFM (air flow meter), then forgies and so on,,,,, how much cash u got.....

What you REALLY should do is go and see John at Unique Auto Sports at Castle Hill. He will have everything you need. Know everything you need to know and also advise you on what is the next best modification for your car. He will also take care of your services without any issues as he deals with skylines / imports 100% of the time. He is your man.

His website is at www.gtr.com.au - he has been in the game for years.

First thing you should change is the fuel pump,fuel filter & injector clean. trust me on this. Far too many RB's get killed from lean-outs after upping the boost w/stock fuel pump. There are many threads about "#x piston/ringland damage after upping boost with stock fuel pump".

Just look at Geoff's engine failure thread !

Cheap insurance for future power ups.

hahahahahhaaa microdrift can kill in seconds

LOL

I suggest he goes to see John @ Unique Auto Sports (www.gtr.com.au) to get an idea what he is up for. Way too many noobiez on this forum trying to help other newbies thinking they have a clue. No offence

well my suggestion would be for the basics.. strut tower brace - they are nice and cheap, 10 minutes to fit, and makes a nice difference to handling. Then looking at some aftermarket springs to firm up the handling - not going all out to start with, some whiteline springs are well priced. I wouldn't go 2nd hand on suspension unless you know the history.

Then replace cat-back, then front pipe.. put in a good panel filter (ignore the pod for now).

Then maybe fuel pump (another cheap insurance mod). After that a $100 bleed valve (sell it later to buy the EBC when you need it), then an S-AFC to be able to extract more power.

All of this can be had for around $2000, and you're already well on the road to a better car.

p.s. there is loads of other info on this in this section.. try a search for "first mods", "what should I do to my skyline", etc

Very good point DnB,

I am 19 - green P Plater ... and ive actually enjoyed the 'challenge' of driving a performance car safley. I learnt and drove a diesel landcruiser 60 series 1985 for about 98% of my driving career - and then got my skyline .... the difference ... enormus as expected but i feel that i am a superior driver do to my experience of driving an extremely awquard car.

Just my thoughts anyway - what does everyone else think?

Or perhaps i will never be as good a driver who learnt to drive on a skyline or performance car?

Go for the turbo back exhaust, with high flow cat. Make sure u get a well known brand that is not loud...

Some nice rims, and possibly a cooler and you will have a nice line...

MAke it look nice - maybe an aftermarket bar, and some 18's.

----------------------------------------

Servicing

Call Fred @ RevRite Perfomance - he is in Silverwater, and is a great mechanic... Tell him Paul sent you..

9648 0264 - www.revriteperformance.com

One of my sisters friends about a week ago, inherited an R33 Skyline after 1 week on his P plates, came out of maccas, put foot to the floor, lost control, smashed into the opposite side curb and bent his rear axle. Goes to show that first time P platers shouldn't be given high performance cars as first cars. Sticking with the good ol' lasers and civics as first cars would be a smart idea and would also save you big bucks in the end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...