Jump to content
SAU Community

Wed. night Drags

rev210

By rev210,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by rev210

Cheers mate.

I still haven't got the concrete in the boot yet. How about you?

You machine should get some nice low 12's with all that new power you have, either that or a good 1/4 mile long burnout.:(

Naa no concrete yet mate :lol:

On my current rubber she's a 1/4 mile burnout special. On semi-comps hopefully it'll be quick!? I need to wait till the 'toy budget' has enough in it to get some RE540's or the like.

So which do you find best? Concrete or paper? Which weighs more, 100kg concrete / 100kg paper :D

ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by rev210

I think I covered it pretty well on the freehorsepower thread on the SDU forum.  

The peltier is a highpower unit but, still only 4x4cm. Its stuck on the bottom plate with bits of metal putty.

thanks rev, i'll take a look... you don't happen to have some direct linkage to the page do ya ?

You know that thread is 40+ pages long!!

-Kym.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by whatsisname

Naa no concrete yet mate :lol:  

On my current rubber she's a 1/4 mile burnout special. On semi-comps hopefully it'll be quick!?  I need to wait till the 'toy budget' has enough in it to get some RE540's or the like.

So which do you find best? Concrete or paper? Which weighs more, 100kg concrete / 100kg paper :(

RE540s? I thought they were a low profile go round corners fast tyre. That is not what you want for the 1/4. the sidewalls don't like to flex and if you let them down too much the flex will damage the side wall cause they aren't designed to do that.

Theeeeeeis is what you waaant : http://www.vpwmailorder.com/asp/product_pa...d=1021&manu_id=

You can MAKE the 275s fit under the guards. :D

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by Strich9ine

thanks rev, i'll take a look... you don't happen to have some direct linkage to the page do ya ?

You know that thread is 40+ pages long!!

-Kym.

There ya go Kym....look at meee kym look at meee.

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...=&pagenumber=36

whatsisname Grand Master

whatsisname

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by rev210

RE540s? I thought they were a low profile go round corners fast tyre. That is not what you want for the 1/4. the sidewalls don't like to flex and if you let them down too much the flex will damage the side wall cause they aren't designed to do that.

Theeeeeeis is what you waaant : http://www.vpwmailorder.com/asp/product_pa...d=1021&manu_id=

You can MAKE the 275s fit under the guards. :(

Yeah the 540's are a track tyre, it's just that I can get them fairly cheap in comparison to other street legal comp' tyres. The options are still open though :( Mate I'd love a set of 275 BF Drag Radials, or Nitto’s. I take it those prices are in AUD per tyre? $440ea. Hmmm a set of the rear would be the go!

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by whatsisname

Yeah the 540's are a track tyre, it's just that I can get them fairly cheap in comparison to other street legal comp' tyres. The options are still open though :(  Mate I'd love a set of 275 BF Drag Radials, or Nitto’s. I take it those prices are in AUD per tyre? $440ea. Hmmm a set of the rear would be the go!

Yep aussi $$

You could get them cheaper elsewhere.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by JiMiH

Hey Rev,

I see you have thermo taped your dump pipe ... could you do that to intercooler piping as well?

What sort of stuff did you use to tape it?

Cheers mate

Yes I wrapped the outlet pipe from turbo to intercooler with the left overs.

I used DEI brand thermo tape (revolution racegear osb. park). It has a nice stiched marker to help get the overlap right.

Make sure you do a good job of painting the dump pipe in high temp silicone based paint, and make sure it is 'cured' properly, this will make the job last. Also I add another coat of paint over the top of the wrap. Not necessary on the ic pipe tho.

The wrapping is a painfully slow process so give yourself a couple of hours, and do it properly or the un-even heat dispesion can cause metal fatigue cracks in the long term. the 2inch wide stuff is the go.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by JiMiH

Cool!

Does it work well?

yeah its good. You can hold onto the dump pipe with your hand when the turbo is on boost without third degree burns.

It traps the heat in the pipe. Heat is energy and therefore is retained in the stored engery of the moving exhaust gas. The exhaust gas comes out the back pipe faster.

You make some power from that and a little from a slightly cooler engine bay. You get some fuel ecconomy bonus too (not a lot tho).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...