Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know that they fit on an R32GTR... I am asking if they fir on a GTST.

I would imagine that the only problem would be the the size of the guards - but I have seen GTST's with wheels that are 10 inches wide (they do come out of the guards a little though).

Does anybody know if there is any problems with actually fitting them to the car?

I guess my main question is - do you just have to roll/pump your guards to be able to fit R34 GTR rims to an R32 GTST?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60293-r34-gtr-rims/#findComment-1145861
Share on other sites

leech have you seen them on a gtst r33?

Are you sure you have to get the guards rolled

yes i have their was one at trojanmotorsport and it looked f&4king AWESOME well it was a silver S1 with different front bar and they were the silver 34 mags not the gold ones anyways i had a chat to the guy that runs the place and he said the rear gaurds had to be rolled not sure about the fronts though. As others have said they are designed for gtr's which have different offsets to the gts-t's which will make them stick out that much more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60293-r34-gtr-rims/#findComment-1146092
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...