Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I thought that would get a few raised eyebrows...

I had a drunk friend in the car the other night and when I ducked back into the house to grab a jacket, she started tooting the (lame arse air horn that came with the car) horn again and again.

I thought nothing of it, but went to use it the other day in a car park and it doesn't work (either air or normal horn). I've had a mate test it all with a multimeter and everything 'seems' fine. He says that I'll need to see an auto elec, but i thought I should check if there was a simple solution that I've overlooked.

I've done a search, but haven't been able to find anything substantial. The fuse is fine and the horn button is still grounded, but I'm buggered if i can work out the problem! :confused:

Any advice would be great!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60397-not-horny-enough/
Share on other sites

Mine died from overuse. A wire in the steering wheel was trapped and kept shorting. Ended up blowing the relay under the bonnet. Couldn't get a direct replacement so i wired in one from autobarn using spade clips. Works fine now. And I got rid of thet stupid wheel....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60397-not-horny-enough/#findComment-1147335
Share on other sites

Mine died from overuse. A wire in the steering wheel was trapped and kept shorting. Ended up blowing the relay under the bonnet. Couldn't get a direct replacement so i wired in one from autobarn using spade clips. Works fine now. And I got rid of thet stupid wheel....

Thanks for the responses guys, and nark the cheque is in the mail.

The guy at autobarn checked the relay and said it was fine, but I might try them again and mention a few of your suggestions.

Cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60397-not-horny-enough/#findComment-1147753
Share on other sites

horny_goat_weed_main.jpg

on a more serious note, take the cover of the steering wheel off and see if there's anything blocking the contacts (oxidisation, trapped insects etc).

My horn just went off in the middle of the night for no reason because an insect managed to get caught between the contacts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60397-not-horny-enough/#findComment-1147791
Share on other sites

Same problem.  Horn died.  It is very common and will require you to open the steering wheel and check the wires

I've got a momo wheel and removed the the whole button assembly as soon as i noticed the problem. Had the guy (drives JAPCRP) at Autobarn pretty puzzled. When you press the horn button, you can hear a faint clicking noise under the bonnet. Makes me think the wheel/wires are fine, but part of the actual horn is knackered.

Such a petty problem, but it's driving me crazy.. i never* use my horn, and there have been sooo many times that i've NEEDED it lately.

*rarely :Oops:

If I did need to take it to someone, can anyone suggest a good place?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60397-not-horny-enough/#findComment-1148472
Share on other sites

While were talking horns. Can I tag on and get some advice.

I have a horn in the drivers side door - WTF. I didnt know it was there until 4 am in the morning it started going off. No idea the first time and drowsy as all hell, so I disconected the battery eventually to get some sleep.

A few nights later same thing!! so while I was in the car I heard where it was comming from and felt the vibrations in the door. At first I thought it was part of the new Imobiliser alarm Sytem I had installed. Nope they didn't do it but tell me they have seen a few with them in.

I'm thinking disconnect. But any ideas if its factory and what its for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60397-not-horny-enough/#findComment-1148507
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...