Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How's that? What do you do and what tells you the fault(s)? Is there a link to this' date=' or is this 'common' knowledge that the total lack of anything mechanical stored in my head has neglected me to be aware of?

[b']Auto Transmission Diagnostics[/b]


Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode

Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on

Start the engine the power light will go out after 2 seconds

Turn the ignition off

Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)

Overdrive off

Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on

Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2

Overdrive on

Move the selector to 1

Overdrive Off

Press the accelerator fully and release

Auto transmission diagnostics codes

The error codes are flashed out using the Power light on the dashboard (R32) or the Power /

Snow button (R33). The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be

followed by ten short flashes.

Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected

3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected

4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control

unit power source is damaged

9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the

same with no

long start flash

Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or

control unit has just been reconnected

:headspin:

  • 2 years later...
  • 9 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...