Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking for cams for my rb25 and was just after some recomendations from people who have changed theirs.

im looking at tomei poncams (256 grind) for both exhaust and intake.

im currently running 1 bar of boost through a stock internal motor that has a gt30/40 turbo and autronic smc ecu. its making 302rwhp.

any help would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61182-cams-for-an-rb25det/
Share on other sites

I know that a lot of guys swear by the Tomai Poncams but i was advised that the HKS 256 IN and 264EX are a little more powerful and still retain the VVT. I went the HKS route and after a minor hickup being sent the wrong HKS EXH Cam from Japan with the wrong CAS fitting (R34 CAS), I must say i am very happy now and the car is making good power around 260kw at the rear wheels.

Ian

R32, R33 or R34.

The Tomei Poncams are designed to work perfectly with the single stage VVT in the R33 and the constantly variable in the R34.

The 260 degrees ones are often spoken about as the best to buy.

That's what I have my eyes on to answer the question once and for all about the power gains on a stock turbo.

BASS OUT

fresh: are you serious?!

cams and head gasket is my next move too, SK backs the 260 poncams strongly, so thats a good indication.

Ive also heard to go HKS 256in and 264 ex. What is the advantage of doing this as opposed to 260in and ex?? Can anyone say which route is better?!

fresh: are you serious?!

cams are my next move too, SK backs the 260 poncams strongly, so thats a good indication.

Ive also heard to go HKS 256in and 264 ex. What is the advantage of doing this as opposed to 260in and ex?? Can anyone say which route is better?!

Bass, how much do you love your buddy club P1s!? I just put a set on, great rims, bargain price.

SK, what stops us from throwing in a solid setup to replace the hydraulic?  As with my old torrie we simply through in a solid profile and solid lifters and ditched the hydraulic stuff!

You have to change everything, valves, springs, followers, seats, guides, retainers and collets. They are all different dimensions to allow for the extra thickness required for the hydraulic followers.

Last time I added it up, it was much cheaper to buy an RB26 top end.:D

You have to change everything, valves, springs, followers, seats, guides, retainers and collets.  They are all different dimensions to allow for the extra thickness required for the hydraulic followers.

Last time I added it up, it was much cheaper to buy an RB26 top end.:D

So wouldnt this apply to the GTR cams in a RB20/25... = cant be done without changing all that?

So wouldnt this apply to the GTR cams in a RB20/25... = cant be done without changing all that?

Some explanation required............

RB25's have VVT and RB26's don't.

But RB20's don't have VVT, so you CAN use RB26 cams in an RB20.

But that wasn't the question....

The question was can you simply swap over the followers from hydraulic to solid

And the answer was no, you have to swap everything.

Hope that clarifies:cheers:

couple more things SK, when adding a set of poncams, im guessing you want to use new lifters too?  and how are original 1994 stock valve springs going to fare, is it wise to throw some new springs in while your there?

thanks!

Personally I am not a fan of standard RB vlave springs, even new they are a bit soft for my liking. That said their quality is OK, they don't seem to soften off much. Poncams are designed to work with standard everything else, so I haven't heard of anyone with a problem.:rofl:

Hi Guys,

I have a question on this too. I am ooking at 256 degree/8.8mm lift HKS cams IN & Exh. Is it better to run a 264/9 Exh cam with 256/8.8 In? to run with a GT30R turbo.

Will this also require new springs?

Thanks

Hi Guys,

I have a question on this too. I am ooking at 256 degree/8.8mm lift HKS cams IN & Exh. Is it better to run a 264/9 Exh cam with 256/8.8 In? to run with a GT30R turbo.

Will this also require new springs?

Thanks

It's fine to run 256/8.8mm lift IN and 264/9.0mm lift EX. Thats the way i have my R33 GTS-t setup. 264/ 9.0mm EX still retains VVT. When you install them make sure you coat all the journals and bearings with "mollybond" yellow tube, and rev to constant 2000 RPM for 15 minuites to break in the cams. It's not necessary to install new springs with these cams.

Ian

It's fine to run 256/8.8mm lift IN and 264/9.0mm lift EX. Thats the way i have my R33 GTS-t setup. 264/ 9.0mm EX still retains VVT. When you install them make sure you coat all the journals and bearings with "mollybond" yellow tube, and rev to constant 2000 RPM for 15 minuites to break in the cams. It's not necessary to install new springs with these cams.

Ian

Cool thanks for that!! :cheers:

Looks like I will follow that route then :) The rev limiter on mine has been removed. Is it a safer option to install new sturdier springs to allow higher revs? Is there anything else that needs to be done to allow higher revs safely? Not astromonomical revs...just a bit higher. It seems to rev over 8500 comfortably without valve bounce. I was told that it had internal work done on it when i bought it, but someone else listened to the exhaust note and said that it still had standard cams.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...