Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys hope someone can help me. I have just recently been given a Nismo Short shift for my skyline from a friend who owns a recking yard, well he said it was a Nismo one anyway but it is missing the little plastic bit on the end.

Have tried using the standard one no good gets stuck also tried using a VL Turbo one no good.

Would anybody know were I could buy one from or even has one laying around that would fit sweet.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61186-need-help-with-nismo-short-shift/
Share on other sites

have you actually tried putting the stocker in a vice and prying it off?? thats how i got mine of, it snapped cause i wasnt careful but i just locklite it together again. and yes you cant pull it off by hand other wise it would fall off into the gbox when u took it out in the first place.

hope that helps.

Yeah I have tried putting the stocker in but it jams and doesn’t shift at all. I even tried it with nothing worked fine, it just had a little play when it N. Look might not even be for R33.

Yeah it has a spacer spacer on it. Can't remember if he got it off a 33 or a 34????

Any major differences?? I might post a picture in a few days so you guys get a better picture of what I have.

Thanks for the input. :rofl:

i know with the r33 the ball / socket part on the end of the shifter is the same size with both series 1 + 2 but the actual plastic bit is that clips on the end is a different size. Not too sure about 34 though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...