Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I currently own a R33 GTR in relatively stock form but with a 3inch exhaust (turbo back), chipped ECU and Nismo GMax clutch. After a year & a half the performance bug has bitten me and doing an upgrade - HKS GT-SS turbos & dumps, PowerFC, blitz BC, 260° Tomei poncams & cam gears but also the required fuel pump, injector & intercooler upgrade. Now as the radiator hose recently split and resulted in a blow headgasket I'm looking at performing all the work here in Bundaberg (4hrs north of Brisbane).

I was originally going to have all the work done in GC but as they are taking the head off & doing the VRS gasket replacements it would be easier just to install turbos, timing belt, cams & cam gears then. Going to get the head acid bathed & examined too. With a rough road tune I'll drive it to the Gold Coast to get tuned appropriately (no 4wd dynos in Bundy).

I was wondering how much adjusting would be required to the base tune. The injectors would be replaced (444cc to the 700cc Sard injectors) so if anyone has an idea on the correction values for this, that would be great.

Also, I currently have the stock 65mm GTR adapters connected via the HKS metal reducing pipe set to a carbon fibre cold air intake setup. So what I need is some similar 80mm piping from the 80mm Z32 afms to the 80mm pod filters.

Heres the current setup without CF air box:

http://home.austarnet.com.au/myra/filtersmall.jpg

and the HKS kit off:

http://home.austarnet.com.au/myra/hks%20pods.jpg

I was just wondering what the easiest wasy to do this was - have them fabricated or purchase them from somewhere (but I have no idea who would stock them).

Otherwise I guess I could leave standard AFM's until I take it to the Gold Coast - I'm assuming the car will be running fairly rich & shouldnt be hitting the limit as I'll be driving it fairly gently.

Thanks for your help and time,

Geoff

P.S. It will be interesting to see what response and power we can achieve from these turbos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61603-r33-gtr-tuningupgrade/
Share on other sites

These are the parts I'm about to have installed. Does anyone forsee any problems??

- 700cc Sard Injectors

- PowerFC + handcontroller

- Blitz ID3 dual boost controller

- 2 x Z32 AFM’s with plugs

- 2 x GT-SS HKS turbos

- 2 x HKS split dumps

- Tomei Fuel Pump

- 260° Tomei Poncams

- HKS Cam Gears

- Trust 600 x 300 x 115 Intercooler

- Trust Timing Belt

- Cusco Catch Can

Cheers,

Penfold

Ditch the cam gears and put the $ towards bigger cams and valve springs.

When you change cams make sure:

1) It's a big enough difference ie. 272 degrees +

2) You use a matching set of upgraded valve springs.

Otherwise looks like a good combo which should set the 4 doughnuts ablaze :rofl:

For the sake of your sanity, I'd get the car towed to your preferred mechanic and get all the work done at the same time. If there happens to be any problems in the future, you have one party to deal with. You are about to spend a substantial amount of money in modifications, another $4-500 should not be an issue. If it is, hire a tandem trailer and transport the car yourself.

Your list of mods to be performed read spot on. They are pretty much customary these days.

300+ rwkw should not be an issue.

Enjoy.

As for ustasa sying go for somthing big light 272 just letting you know i have both the same cams and same turbo's and i make 290 awkw at only 18 PSI at 8000 RPM with it still pulling like a steam train at 8000.

yes i'm going to raise the limiter to 9000 as we have jun vlave springs and put around 21 psi and see what happens.

As for ustasa sying go for somthing big light 272 just letting you know i have both the same cams and same turbo's and i make 290 awkw at only 18 PSI at 8000 RPM with it still pulling like a steam train at 8000.

yes i'm going to raise the limiter to 9000 as we have jun vlave springs and put around 21 psi and see what happens.

Hey dude, sounds like the car is going good. I was at CAS about a month ago and didn't see your car there so I presumed everything was sweet. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...