Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do not involve your insurance company......Tell them your going to use a third party recovery agent...they will shit them selves.....call them everyday take the wheels off and throw them on there doorstep with a note (this works well...i have done it many times)call them 5 or 6 times a day call the assesor 3 or 4 times a day

hey siksII, I shold have explained better, the weld, sand and repaint I would only allow for chips on the surface, never for an actual crack on the rim. Our rims only had superficial damage and so I'm happy for them to repair it :cheers:

duncan:

the zed has the original wheels right? they are forged so by getting them welded up they will be much weaker (i wouldnt drive on one..) than they originally were, if i were you i would have gotten a replacement rim...

it may look the same but it will lose lots of strength.

The damage being repaired was cosmetic, chips and scrapes and gouges. I would get my wheels repaired like that without hesitation because the wheels are still structually intact. If the wheel had (say) broken in half, and they then proceeded to rewelded those two halves back together, THEN I wouldnt trust driving on them.

If its just a cosmetic touch up then you shouldnt worry about it, just make sure its ballanced before putting it back on the car.

hey siksII, I shold have explained better, the weld, sand and repaint I would only allow for chips on the surface, never for an actual crack on the rim.  Our rims only had superficial damage and so I'm happy for them to repair it :)

Ah ok fair enough, it sounded like the wheel had structural damage when i heard 'weld' !

assuming you are insured, use your insurance company to get what you want. if they call, just tell them you're going through your insurer.

some years ago a woman ran into me while i was stationary (i.e. her fault). she was driving a government car on a weekend, dressed in horse-riding gear. clearly not for gov't use. about a week later, i received a letter from a melbourne insurance company listing damage all over her car (even though prang was front left quarter only) and asking me to admit being at fault.

i threw the letter in the bin and didn't reply. i took the car to a registered repair shop and they sent the bill to my insurance co (nrma back then).

don't deal with them any more, use your insurance company. if you reply to any of their letters or phone calls, they might be able to use this as your admission of fault. if they call, be polite, but don't talk with them: "my insurer is dealing with this matter. goodbye".

well if it was her fault then take her to court and you'll prob dig deep into her pockets there, but its really your choice on this. theres not much you can do with 2 rims, except look stupid. =]

its called drift look :wassup:

and fight they have to pay up everything to put your car in the con it was before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...