Jump to content
SAU Community

coil packs?

ASYLUM

By ASYLUM,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ASYLUM Community Regular

ASYLUM

Posted
Posted

still having some trouble with my NA R33.

brief recap - had it for a year and ran great then suddenly started running really rough and belting out smoke from the exhaust, stalling on idle and dropping revs etc. used a heap of fuel.

put an aftermarket ECU in it and it resolved the worst of the problem, still threw out some smoke under hard acceleration and revved itself on idle etc would stall if i put the air con on. still used too much fuel

had a retune and adjust and seems better but now is stalling on cold start and still revs itself from 900-1100rpm, haven't tested the fuel tank yet but doesn't seem to have changed much.

i have been looking around the forums at similar problems and have noticed mention of coil packs popping up, some saying it is a common R33 problem with hairline cracks etc.

wondering - where they are? how much to fix/replace and what i can do to test if it is them or not?

any info is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61826-coil-packs/
Share on other sites
ASYLUM Community Regular

ASYLUM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

not that i am aware of... where are the coil packs? what do they look like? if i can find them i will go ahead and wrap them or glue them.

pics or DIY?

SST tested pretty much everything on the car but i am trying ot think of what it could be, they said my O2 sensor was reading fine so i want to check the coil packs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61826-coil-packs/#findComment-1166854
Share on other sites
xr8eater Experienced

xr8eater

Posted
Posted

under the black cover screwed down by allen keys in the middle of your engine it says nissan 2500 on it they are under there you can then un screw them individualy or the whole lot deprnding on what bolts you un screw i will get some pics later if you are still haveing trobule

you will need to take some small hoses off and the intake pipe first

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61826-coil-packs/#findComment-1167186
Share on other sites
Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted

Once they have warmed up, you can test the resistance on them, OR

take it to nissan to plug it in and it should tell you.

For the first method, do a search, it is covered in detail.

taping or gluing doesn't really cost more than a few bucks. If it works, then you know they were the culprit to begin with.

Obviously new coils are the better option, but if you can save a few bucks, it is worth a try...

what does glueing or taping your coil packs do?

if the coils have a crack (which most do after X amount of km or years) then the spark can arc from the crack in the coil, onto the head, meaning you will get considerably less spark to your plug, and it will not ignite the fuel entirely. This causes misfire.

The coils being made of a thermo plastic, cant be plastic welded, so they need to be covered with some sort or epoxy that will stick. If you look at the back of each coil pack, they actually come covered with an epoxy, so using araldite (which is an epoxy) should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61826-coil-packs/#findComment-1167515
Share on other sites
ASYLUM Community Regular

ASYLUM

Posted
  • Author
Posted
under the black cover screwed down by allen keys in the middle of your engine it says nissan 2500 on it they are under there you can then un screw them individualy or the whole lot deprnding on what bolts you un screw i will get some pics later if you are still haveing trobule  

you will need to take some small hoses off and the intake pipe first

cheers for the info, pics would be a help but i'll take a look this weekend.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61826-coil-packs/#findComment-1167719
Share on other sites
benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

The araldite cost me about $12 and it took me about 4 days to do. I'd take 1 out, glue it up, put another spare coil in so i could still drive my car whilst leaving the other coil to dry for a solid 24hrs in the sun (if you put them back in any sooner the araldite glue will just drip all over everything so take your time and do 1 at a time).

/waiting on Splitfires from Nengun :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61826-coil-packs/#findComment-1170432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...