Jump to content
SAU Community

Laptop / ecu

Jahson

By Jahson,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRman1992 Proficient

GTRman1992

Posted
Posted

You could use it to tune an existing ECU if you have the right software, but to run your engine from a laptop, not a good idea.

Engine management requires a real time operating system to control fuel injectors etc and read input signals. Windows is a non-deterministic operating system which means interupt latency is not guaranteed. Even Embedded versions of windows can be called soft real time at best. This means it responds to imputs when its ready, not when you need it to. Also you have to contend with the blue screen of death etc. If you use linux, it is better but it is still not a hard real time operating system.

Hypothetically if you did get all the software sorted out and had a hard real time operating system and the appropriate engine management software installed you still have the problem of having the required interfaces such as reading all the input signals and being able to drive outputs such as fuel injectors. So an external interface would be required.

The laptop is also not made to run in that environment full time. The hard drive would fail and you would probably suffer random lockups from internal problems caused by the continuous vibration and g-forces.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61993-laptop-ecu/#findComment-1170042
Share on other sites
curly_fry_44 Contributor

curly_fry_44

Posted
Posted

what software would u need for a r33?series 2? what programs? im not chasing engine manangement i just wanna see what the car is doing?and also help with tuning the orginal ecu? but i dont want it to acutally run the car or anything like that! what software would i need to read the car and look at all that???pm me if u have the software or have ideas thankz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61993-laptop-ecu/#findComment-1170542
Share on other sites
z3n2k Rising Star

z3n2k

Posted
Posted

if you obtain a conzult cable from PLMS Developments you can read your ECU all fine, but that doesn not do tuning.. only part i have heard of really for hand on tuning is hand controller for Power FC.

I am running the conzult cable on a r32 rb25 and it works all fine, i can read everything from the ECU, turn off cyclinder, increase/decrease timing but very limited options.

I have tried a few programs but they basically all the same, but would never think about running a full engine management system off a laptop as GTRman has said, would not be worth it.

Can you re turn the original ECU's? i know yoshi would be able to do these i think.

Having 12 guages on a laptop is kinda cool looking tho. haha :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61993-laptop-ecu/#findComment-1170609
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...