Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62165-r32-rebuild-where-to-from-here/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head  

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF  

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

the mines ECU is holding your potential back, its strange you put engines fuel supply last. It does not matter how tough you build an engine, poor fuel delivery and tuning can quickly have you back to square one. eg. a well tuned stocker can outlast and sometimes outperform a poorly tuned built engine.Paul...DIRTgarage.

No, A powerFC should be next.

 

If you want to stretch the stock injectors a little you should also get an adjustable fuel pressure reg. The stock injectors 'I THINK' with a bit of fuel pressure max out just under 300rwkw.

280-300rwkw sounds about right to me (if you run the math)

do i NEED a hand controller with the PFC - or can I use a laptop

Guest two.06l
Sorry guys - quick correction  

It's not mines - it's Blitz. It's still got to go tho

any input on rwkw for the inital setup ? (I'm hoping for ~250rwkw @ 18psi)

we made 284rwkw on a stocker with cat back 3" exhaust, power fc running base map and AVC-R boost controller.

9881DIRTgarage_dyno1.jpg

Everycar is different, and so are the dyno's there are run on ... in saying that you should be well over 250rwkw as you can get that with stock turbo's

was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

Guest two.06l
was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho  

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

we tweaked the injector correction values to achieve the A/F ratios,running 1 bar boost with stockies.

was running std turbos @ ~15psi - no dump pipes - and was getting 210rwkw

pots 1 and 4 were almost total shot tho  

can't wait to get the car back (and wait 5000klms for it to run in)

and adj cam gear is worth a good 20rwkw on a GTR

noticed 5000km was mentioned as a run in period is this seen as the mark for boost increases to higher levels?... I have an engine in exactly the same spec as itbilms (trust cooler and factory ECU) and it has currently done 1200km and had the 1000km oil change....

motul 8100....

I am running 13.5psi max with most running being done on the 9 psi low boost setting.....

I have not taken it to the dyno as yet, as I have had the car for all of 3 days!

just a few questions for those more in the know than I.....

what is deemed a safe boost?

Apexi FC seems to be the way to go, are bigger injectors needed? and will they bring a gain for the $$$ or are they just going to give a high potential later with other things done....

oil cooler? when is it deemed a must do?

any worthy advice is certainly wanted ;) you can never know too much about these cars!

I've stuck with mineral oil (Motul 4000 10w30) until 10,000km's.

Its probably a little overkill as I only really needed to stay with mineral oil until 5,000km's.

I figure its best to be safe than sorry and have a motor that has a bit more blowby than it should have.

Up to 10,000km's is what they yank's usually do and is what is recommended for a lot of new cars before changing to synthetic. Thats the main reason for my decision.

My motor, run 16psi since it was bedded in on the dyno using mobil1 synthetic right from the start.

Nothing wrong yet, down'd 5000km's so far

MAjor car manufacturers use synthetic right from the get-go, so am i

All

I have just rebuilt my R32 GTR as follows

forged/balanced shot peened (solid) bottom end

N1 Turbos

N1 bearings

R34 crank

port and polish head  

HKS dump pipes and 80mm exhaust (no cat)

1.2mm TOMEI head gasket

N1 Water

N1 Oil

Std cooler and AFM

Mines ECU

What sort of rwkw should I expect @ ~18psi (should be fine with the N1's yes?)

What mods should I look at next and in what order

FMIC + hard piping kit

PCF  

Z32s

044 Fuel Pump + injectors

first power fc and hand controller

second afms (rb20/25 are good to 540rwhp and much cheaper)

third 700cc injectors (i dont know about pump as i'm making 525rwhp on std unit)

also when you do afms upgrade all your inlet piping to turbos

and with these mods with good exhaust you should easily make mid 400rwhp

only my opinion hope it helps ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...