Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Had these sitting here for the last year and have only really used them once, both are in pretty good condition. There isnt any chips etc just a few scuffs around the edges. With a good clean and maybe a new sticker they will come up pretty nice.

Mags are Nismo/Rays Engineering lmgt2 17x9 (Mags are the rear of the set meaning they are deep dish and 9' wide)

Tyres are toyo proxies or something in a good tyre frying 215/35/17 with atleast 40-50% tread left :burnout: (Tyres arent safe for daily use, have sidewall damage)

Selling because im moving out next month for the first time and need all the money i can get

local sale brisbane

$300 the lot

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62247-trackburnout-rims-tyres-for-sale/
Share on other sites

this mayb a stupid question, but are you sellin 2 or four wheels?

cheers!

2 :wassup: They are the back wheels from an LMGT2 set. As posted in the original thread. So in other words they are light weight 3 piece forged mags 17x9

also included are 2 tyres with plenty of burnout/drift action in them

i have a mate who mite be taking them this wkend mud, i just said first in first served :headspin:

wont really go any less than 300 for 2 mags and 2 tyres, and these aint no ROH wheels or something.

If not sold local by this wkend ill be putting in the general for sale forum

how much for a full set???

New or from me?

im not selling full set, dont have spare front ones just back

new set of lmgt2s is about 4k, some good second hand examples going for around 2k recently

cmon ppl i need the money, everyone wants track rims just not when im selling them :wassup:

Moving to For Sale...

could u possibly move back to qld adrian?

i posted in qld cos i wont be selling unless its a local sale, not worth spending money to send them somewhere i guess

would have to be a large % of the actuall cost of the wheels just to send them

would i be correct in saying that a 9" wide rim with 215's would look severely under tyred?

i'm interested in the rims... just gotta talk myself into spending anouther $300

would i be correct in saying that a 9" wide rim with 215's would look severely under tyred?

i'm interested in the rims... just gotta talk myself into spending anouther $300

yeha lol

its not that bad, good for burnouts etc

got a person pending most probably sold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...