Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Top end power problem

JULZA

By JULZA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JULZA Apprentice

JULZA

Posted
Posted

I've got a R33 GTST running a R34 turbo. The car is pretty much stock other than the cheap mods.

Has anyone had a problem when the trubo spools up to full boost that the car gives a struggling sound and can even shudder a bit?

This problem has only started now and happens even on stock boost levels.

My initial thought is that it's leaning out, but I've got a GTR fuel pump so I'm not sure.

Any help would be much appreciated..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62311-r33-top-end-power-problem/
Share on other sites
cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

If you have front mount cooler/Dumpipe/Exhaust done, it should be breathing fully and not strugling uptop.

Leaning out won't make it struggle - as you said you have a bigger fuel pump and with stock R34 turbo - it should'nt lean out.

What boost are you running & what else is done to the car ?

:cheers:

Jun

tang0 Proficient

tang0

Posted
Posted
Do the dumpipe from the turbo to cat.

 

&

 

Front Mount Intercooler.

 

Maby try changing you'r spark plugs aswel.

 

This should help.

 

:P

Jun

theres a grand easily !!!

might just be worth changing the fuel filter ... often overlooked, but can often be a cheap quick fix as well if the current one is full of cr@p

JULZA Apprentice

JULZA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The spark plugs were just changed, the platinum kind which cost a packet!

The Fuel filter sounds like a possibility cause I dunno when it was changed last.

The rpm doesn't show any signs of struggling when the problem occurs, the other thing is that if I put my foot down and bring the boost just a little shy of full boost it's fine.

So it only happens when I floor the car. The car doesn't really shudder as such it's more of a audible issue and power drop out (from the turbo). When at full boost it's as if it is being floored then eased off then floored, so it cuts in and out of sounding like normal.

It's bloody hard to describe but it's never happened before and annoying.

I'll test the fuel pump flow and check out the fuel filter and let you know.

joh21m Collaborator

joh21m

Posted
Posted

sounds a lot like the problem i have now with my rb20det...when i hit 5500rpm, power drops from 122rwkw to about 80rwkw, mechanic has suggested new coil packs which i ordered about 5 weeks ago and still havent arrived. I dont think its gonna fix the prob but i will let you know how it goes...

maybe you should put it on a dyno aswell...i found my car is running super rich as SK pointed out, im looking at an safc to correct this...

i'll let you know how it all goes...

Joh

fresh Rising Star

fresh

Posted
Posted

too much boost on the stock ecu, it'll pull the timing and and dump in fuel like a bitch, dunno your problem might be worse then that but the stock ecu don't like much more then 10psi, maybe its time for an aftermarket ecu, u seem to have done everything else

JULZA Apprentice

JULZA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah,

I've thought about grabbing an apexi AFC but cost is an issue.

The reason that I don't want to go down the computer path is because it was running high levels of boost with no problems for ages, and now on stock boost it does it so it can't be the stock ecu struggling.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...