Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006


Recommended Posts

I got my package today and if everything works out it'll be in on the weekend.

I'll keep you all posted.

Also, I've started a new thread about possible gearbox problems i'm having.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanx.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...686#post1224686

standard cooler is tiny, about 1/3 of the upgrade

for those curious people

here's a pic of the MV cooler upgrade

got it today with the new valvebody

Awesome, ill be getting one of those too

Shift kit is in!

definitely tighter shifts... but a bit more brutal in my case since Ive got a wolf in as well, still within reason though

Will be sending valvebody back real soon

tomorrow or day after, its still soaked in oil

The trans-cooler also went in, too bad had to mount it between radiator and FMIC (stock location) would have preffered a better location.

So is it gentle at lower speeds still?  Can you please give us a more detailed description lukits?

At lower speeds it shifts like factory, I couldn't really feel any difference. But at high rpm, shifts are definitely more jerky, chirps the back wheels a bit in my case

Any figures on how much power the auto box can handle now with the shift kit and trans cooler?

My tuner has very little faith in them...

I beleive mike himself on zoom mag said 'With a good condition box and one of my shift kits.. 300kw)

Im about to call MV auto now and get things rolling

Also, did you install yourself lukits?

The trans-cooler also went in, too bad had to mount it between radiator and FMIC (stock location) would have preffered a better location.

What about next to the pasenger side wheel well behind front clip where there is a slotted panel behind old IC (at least on GTS -Make some if not)? At least the air will be cooler going through it. A Fan would help as well.

No I didnt try to mount the valvebody or trans cooler myself

What about next to the pasenger side wheel well behind front clip where there is a slotted panel behind old IC (at least on GTS -Make some if not)? At least the air will be cooler going through it. A Fan would help as well.

I dont think the lines that come with the trans cooler is long enough to have it mounted on the passenger side and besides my intercooler piping sorta blocks the airway from the front bumper slightly

i want 1 in about 1-2 weeks with service kit

Any other Gold Coast people wanna have it done at the same time to save on postage ?????

Called mv the other day and made an order, just waiting for some ppl to send their valvebodies back before he can send anymore out

my auto is starting to play up a little in 3rd gear, occasionally it drops down as if it was in neutral.. asked mike about it and he says its something to do with the engine or trans brake and it should be ok

still, im a bit picky and like everything to be perfect :wassup:

either way i have another auto sitting at my dads house ready to go in if this one breaks :(

anyone who needs somewhere to go in brisbane for auto work.. apparently Athena Automatics are pretty good, had a mate take his auto 180 there with a blown box and with a box he supplied they changed them for $2xx

ide imagine fitting a valvebody + full flush and new fluid (depending on fluid, i use full synthetic = $45 per 4L) wouldnt cost more than $100 max at an automatic specialist

everyone post up how their install went and details so the rest can be informed :P

also, has anyone actually broken their auto and have a new one put it or work done on it?

Sent valvebody back to MV yesterday

Ive used my shift kitted auto-box to the max yesterday from standing start to 6-7k rpm on 4th gear. It shifts nicely at full throttle even with wolf3d. My tyres are crap so it takes a bit of throttle control when shifting from 1st to 2nd to maintain traction.

But ive seem to have a problem with the geearbox computer, often esspecially when its warm, it shifts gears too early. In one run I would go up to 5000rpm and it would shift, other times at 5500, 6000, 6500. Any ideas why the auto box wont shift at 7000 all the time?

Have you tried using the POWER shift button?

I just read your post again and noticed you're using Wolf3D. I'd say that's whats causing the problem for you. The aftermarket computers don't work well with Auto boxes. They are no designed to comunicate with the Auto ECU.

The normal Auto computer has to comunicate to the main ECU. There's a few wires between them. The Auto computer retrives the speed and rev signals. Not sure about the rest.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...