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Okay guys, look at these pics, now ask yourselves would you want you engine bay to look like this (above) or have bloody pipes everywhere? anyways, Unique's kit suits the factory throttle body but also comes with a flange that allows TBs up to 80mm.

By the way guys, for those that have absolutly nil ideas about the concept of 'flow', air (gases) travels through pipes in a circular motion, kinda like a screw, so obviously the ideal path of the pipe is a straight line. IE the less kinks the better, if a 'kink' is a must then the closer to 180 degrees the better. Anyone wants to argue then feel free, they can argue with the 2nd yr Aeronautical Engineering text book that I got this from.

Wow, I do get quoted a lot.......

I have seen terrible air flow patterns from relocated throttle bodies.  I wouldn't do it.

img.jpg

Whats your opinion on this SK? Try to not be too brutal - it cost me plenty!

More here...

http://www.turboclub.com/turbocars/nissan/...grade/index.htm

By the way guys, for those that have absolutly nil ideas about the concept of 'flow', air (gases) travels through pipes in a circular motion, kinda like a screw, so obviously the ideal path of the pipe is a straight line. IE the less kinks the better, if a 'kink' is a must then the closer to 180 degrees the better. Anyone wants to argue then feel free, they can argue with the 2nd yr Aeronautical Engineering text book that I got this from.

Okay guys, look at these pics, now ask yourselves would you want you engine bay to look like this (above) or have bloody pipes everywhere?

Geez Simon - take it easy on everyone taking some timeout to give you some (well founded) advice... :P

My answer to your comment above regarding "bloody pipes everywhere" is simple - whichever one is safer and better performing for my engine: looks is secondary.

However, it seems you have made your decision - the kit you are looking at is well made and UAS have a great rep, im sure you wil be happy with the choice.

img.jpg  

Whats your opinion on this SK? Try to not be too brutal - it cost me plenty!

More here...

http://www.turboclub.com/turbocars/nissan/...grade/index.htm

Same response I give to all inlet manifold modifiers, while trying not to be brutal.

Personally I would have spent the "plenty" on something that actually makes the car go faster. Cams maybe, or adj pulley, a better turbo, a superior exhaust manifold, split dump, Power FC, good tune (or 5), valve springs, clutch, LSD, sticky tyres, springs, decent shocks, good brake pads, stabiliser bars, radius rod bsuhes etc etc

As you can see it might be "on my list", but it is sure as hell a long way down that list.

Hope that wasn't too brutal:cheers:

Well here's the challenge, produce a set (6, that's one for each cylinder) of lambda readings from idle to red line that shows all 6 cylinders are receiving the same airflow. That's without injector compensation of course. I don't want my car producing 5% less power from cylinder #1. Because that is exactly what happens when you reduce the fuel to compensate for less air. Air plus fuel = power, so less air and less fuel in 1 or 2 cylinders means they produce less power.

If I have a 600 bhp engine, I want 100 bhp from each cylinder, not 95 bhp from #1 and 97 bhp from #2 and 103bhp from # 5 and 105bhp from #6. Imagine what that does to the twisting forces and then add the imbalance of combustion pressures on a long straight 6 crankshaft. Should I discuss the uneven heat loading on the cylinder head? Or the differential block stresses? Nuh, my work is done here I think.:P

Dude u cant dissprove anything or say anything bad about the blitz piping setup because u never had a Bltiz Cooler!!!!!! U say all this bad stuff about the piping, then u tell us it was a truck core! Blitz coolers are one of the best non-drag racing application coolers on the market........ the piping may have not had enything to do with response, as u had a truck core.

All i can say is after installing the cooler, on stock boost there is no response lost at all, dont know about higher boost applications.

Can you post some pics of your set up including how the pipes on the original side from the top, near the turbo and underneath if possible. I am considering this option as it uses the original locations and I do not want anything over the top of my fan...

Dude u cant dissprove anything or say anything bad about the blitz piping setup because u never had a Bltiz Cooler!!!!!! U say all this bad stuff about the piping, then u tell us it was a truck core! Blitz coolers are one of the best non-drag racing application coolers on the market........ the piping may have not had enything to do with response, as u had a truck core.

All i can say is after installing the cooler, on stock boost there is no response lost at all, dont know about higher boost applications.

*cough* ...

My point was that there is more to it than just the way the pipes are routed.

I have used similar pipe routing as the Biltz intercooler kit.

i.e. crossover pipe tucked up in between the cooler and radiator. I made the piping myself from less than $200 worth of parts and an afternoon with a MIG.

Inlet and outlet hook up to the stock plumbing and there was no metal bodywork cut, drilled, hacked, bashed or bent. Had to do a bit of surgery to the front bar to fit the intercooler but it all fits nice and neat now. (actually I have to make a new bend for the driver's side of the core to let the piping tuck up a bit tighter... THEN it will be tidy as.) Intercooler is a 600x300x76 Hybrid "copy".

It looks totally stock from above the engine and would be a easy swap to return to stock. (none of the stock parts butchered to fit new setup, except the front bar and fill in the holes with black expanded mesh and ... no problemo)

Will be pulling the bar off in a couple of weeks to finish that second bend and will try to remember to take some pix.

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