Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 Skyline GTS-T Turbo automatic.

Anyone had a problem with the tacho (RPM) part of the cluster not working properly?

Mine seems to gradually run clockwires from 0 all the way round past 9000rpm over the space of about an hour. I have tried to obtain a second dash cluster but I cannot seem to find one cheap. It has worked once or twice at times, but very rarely.

Is this an issue with the tacho, or the connection?

Anyone know where to get a dash cluster fairly cheap?

Thanks.

BOOMAU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63005-my-tacho-is-screwed/
Share on other sites

Pull out the instrument cluster. you have to take out the plastic dash shroud that covers the steering wheel, and the one around the aircond/deck. There are 3 plugs so dont worry about not being able to put it back together again. Unplug and reconnect. You may want to check the connection running into the ECU in the passenger side kickpanel...this is held in by a bolt so doubtful that its that.

May be the actual tacho itself, surely you can just buy a replacement tachometer and slot that into the intrument panel instead of buying the whole lot. you could probably give it a crack yourself and if you run into any problems go see an autoelec.

Pulled out the whole dash, checked all the connectors to make sure that they were all securely conntected and replaced it all.

Still not working....

Anyway, because there is power going to the tacho I really dont know what is going on, the tacho is still moving slowly from 0rpm to over 9000rpm over the space of 1/2 hour.

Obviously the tacho is working on some level, idle and running of the car is fine, I just got no idea what rpm I am doin and it is really starting to bug me.

Thanks for the help, guess only other solution is to try another tacho, cluster and see if that works.

BOOMAU

mine does what yours does too, and fcuk, it is the most annoying ever!!! Its almost comming to the point not im just going to leave it faulty, and run an aftermarket 3 3/4" tacho.. seems like a better idea to me.. plus might be cheaper!!!

let me know if a new cluster fixes it though..

I had (still have) problems with the speedo which is a common prob due to wind backs.

Goes straight to 60km/h weather your doing 10km/h or 120km/h

I wasn't going to spend money fixing it when you can get an APEXi RSM instead.

Exactly what i did and i love it :D

Good for those 0-100 times too. and removes the speed cut.

..and looks sexy!

Probably get one 2nd hand for $250 maybe?

But yeah, has revs too and mine is just velcro'd inside the dash

Plus everyone knows having a quick glance at a tacho or speedo neddle is easier to recognise to the brain than a digital readout. Plus a tacho with its needle design looks heaps better when you rev it up.... Its like almost there, almost..... yeah redline....

True, but when they check it if i get pulled over it goes to zero whcih is correct.

Hehe :D

Plus i can get rid of it if cops are around.

Rip it off and hide it under something (unless they search the cabin off course)

Also, you can set it up so the ecreen will flash at any rev level you want.

One bad thing i don't like about it, which doesn't happen very often, is the sun glare off the glass/plastic face. Normal speedos don't seem to reflect at all so you can always see the speed. Not so with the RSM, but definatley livable.

Definatley a cover up option like you said, but so good at it, i aint fixing the speedo.

it happens to mine, but what i did was i pulled out the whole dash bit and if you pull back the front back of the tacho with all the numbers on it tap the unit behind there or check the wires.. i hit mine and had it connected still with the car running and it starting working again.

Wow, might just try that, I had the tacho out yesterday and once I got it out and checked the connectors to see if they were securely in, I just put the stupid thing back.

I might try it again and see if I can pull off the glass front cover and peel back the tacho cover bit and give it a few taps (possibly punches depending on how frustrated I get with it hehe) check the wires and see if that does anything.

Are there any problems just hooking the tacho up with everything else unplugged (ie aircon, hazard, dash light dimmer, etc)?

I wouldn't think so, but possibly thought that if something wasn't plugged in, car would sense that and somehow screw up the computer.

Anyway, thanks all for the ongoing help with this one, if I figure it out, I might post a thread on what I did in detail for others to try.

Hitting the dyno today, with my stock standard R33, hopefully everything is A OK under the hood so I can start tweakin my little baby up.

Cheers all

BOOMAU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...