Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased a 1990 R32 GTR from japan. After reading countless material, forum threads, friends advise etc im some what in the least confused as a horny prick in a brothal.

I brought the car for a fairly good price at it has done suposedly about 60,000 k's.

I take delivery of the car next week, so in the mean time I have been wondering what mods I can do to it and perhaps do some forwrad planning as to expected cost's, part sourcing and to try and find a mech that wont do crap workmanship on my car nor talk bullshit and has exp to back him up.

I dont want my car to be some over kill machine nor do I want to lose respect by being beating by some homo in a v8 commodore or a WRX.

So taking that into consideration these are my questions.....

What mods shall I do first? eg and in sequence?

eg bosh fuel pump then injectors then ecu then etc etc......

best place to source parts new and second hand any good mech's in perth that deal with skylines etc only?

Do brand names count? as just becuase its trustor HKS does that make it better? also ecu's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63445-r32-gtr-where-to-start/
Share on other sites

On the mechanical side of things when she arrives get a full service done and get it looked over by a workshop there that deals with these cars . I'd be also doing a compression test and organising a dyno run just to see what the tune is like .

If everything is ok and you have a established that you have a healthy GTR then when it comes to mod's ( don't know what mods your car has already) I would be starting with an after market exhuast nice front pipe and if you can afford the labour a decent set of dump pipes (r32 ones are restrictive) . Next step would be ECU something like a power FC which is easy to install there are a fair few ppl who are good at tuning them these days . I would also advise an electronic boost controller to keep the boost to a sane 1bar if you are running the std turbo's. At higher boost levels the turbo blades can leave the shafts and cause you all sorts of trouble .

Get the car straight to a decent workshop.. get them to take a couple of hours to look at it, do the basics, and let you know what you're up for in terms of further problems/repairs. Odds are it'll be time to get the wallet out... its just the way old GT-Rs are..

A place like Hyperdrive can sort you out

well you can do the most basic first, which are full exhaust, pods filters, boost controller. those few things hsould keep ya happy for a while.

but as said above, get the car checked out and fuully serviced. i drove my car home from freo back in decemeber and havnt driven it since.

Most of the engine's out as well as all the pipiing, cause i wanna give everything a good clean and repaint. im also going to change all the belts, seals and fluids.

steve

60,000km..in an 89 gtr you bought for a good price.rofl.

Mate I hate to burst your bubble but a genuine one would go for more in Japan than the on the road price here in WA.

realistically expect to spend $1K for a major service which includes all oils changed to quality synthetic products and that is motor, gearbox, front and rear diff and transfer case, new timing belt, new water pump , plugs, fuel filter and brake fluid flush.check and report on brakes, d/shaft boots etc.

If the car has any more than 2 d/shaft boots gone or been replaced recently, I suspect closer to 100,000km

At the same time we comp test/cylinder leak test it as see whether it is worthwhile continuing or advising you to get your wallet ready for a big hit..

Cheers

Ken

I've just spent almost 5K on servicing and mod fitting/compliance

so start saving mate, plus my mods cost 6K over the last few months and they are all suspension, braking, replacement parts for old ones, Blitz dual EBC excl.

had the tensioner pulleys and other stuff replaced, trying to make it more reliable. braided brakes hoses.....thinks like that. more of a circuit person then drag

mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...