Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Check to see the the motor is plugged in. It is located closer to the rear of the vehicle on the driver's side. It has Sumitomo on it (manufacturers).

Some people disconnect it to avoid problems or to solve problems they are having.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63569-hicas~help/#findComment-1213232
Share on other sites

Check to see the the motor is plugged in. It is located closer to the rear of the vehicle on the driver's side. It has Sumitomo on it (manufacturers).  

 

Some people disconnect it to avoid problems or to solve problems they are having.

the unit is still there but it looks like it has been altered.. it has a small TOMEI black unit piggy-backed on the hicas unit.

what does this mean??

better or worse?

suspension has been changed to a full trust suspension and bushes the rod holing the bushes...and also a cusco tower brace with another brace that is holding the brake master cylinder.

what does this all mean??? that the car was used for circuit? / drag/ drift?

someone help .. thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63569-hicas~help/#findComment-1217213
Share on other sites

It is possible that it has been but you could never be sure.

That is a TOMEI hicas locking kit. It locks the Hicas in place. Usually good for better drifting, I wouldn't disconnect the Hicas for circuit though.

Sounds like it's had quite a bit of work done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63569-hicas~help/#findComment-1217512
Share on other sites

it's probably got a hicas lock kit, however the tomei plug-in thing should stop the warning light from coming on.

Alot of people also get the warning light come on when they have an aftermarket steering wheel.

leave it as-is, most people prefer hicas turned off coz it makes the car's handling a lot more predictable (but also less idiot proof)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63569-hicas~help/#findComment-1218012
Share on other sites

yeh it does say TOMEI hicas locking unit.

so i shouldnt have a problem driving around sharp turns an shiet ..?

no wonder the car handles really good ... specially at take off ..the back doesnt even sag down when on full boost then change to 2nd all u hear is a small squek and continues..

thanks guys ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63569-hicas~help/#findComment-1218380
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...