Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have for sale my old BMX/freestyle bike. It's a mongoose Villian which is a chromoly tube fram bike - very light. It hasn't been used for ages so could use a clean and some oiling etc. It's a great bike.

Asking $130. Pick-up only for this, in sydney.

I also have my other bike for sale too it's a Haro (I forget which type). It has sweet Skyway 5 spoke mag wheels which are pretty cool. It also needs some attention as it hasn't been used for ages either.

Asking $90 for this one. Also pick-up only.

Will sell both for $200. With a little bit of work these are kick ass bikes.

Richard

oh I should ad there is some surface rust that will need to be cleaned off on the handlebars as they've been sitting around a fair while. no big deal though.

i'll have to email them to you cause they are F#$king huge (2.5mb each) and I'm too noob and lazy to re-size them :Oops:

just pm me your email and I'll send them tonight.

Nar dont send me those pics that size.. Ill tel you how to shrink them down..

Right click on the pic and open it with windows paint.

Once the file is open in paint press control W and it will open up with a box labelled stretch and skew.

In the stretch section type in 30 in horizontal and vertical and press ok, this should have shrunken the image to a good size..

Then save it as a jpeg, there will be a drop down box and it should already be on jpeg but could be on BMP. BMP is too big, change it to jpeg if it needs it..

Then save the file: save as: if you press save as it will save the new image and save the old one in its original size. if you press save it alter the image to the small size forever.

[email protected]

Cheers.

thanks mate. as you can tell I'm a bit noob.

Figured out how to just re-size them on the camera then bought them in to work on the external HD (which by the way absolutely rocks).

so here's a couple of pics:

3621DSC00219-med.JPG

3621DSC00220-med.JPG

3621DSC00225-med.JPG

with some cleaning up and servicing these will both be great bikes. far better than the one in your avatar. :rofl:

seriously though, when new these cost nearly $1000 between them.

hey mate - yeah sorry been flat out. Might not be able to pick them up this w/end, but send me an email with your bank account details and i will at least pay for them

[email protected]

Sorry for stuffing you around mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...