Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have got a R33 GTS with RB20E engine in it. I think the head gasket is leaking as there is oil leaking around the top cover!!!

Anyways..I thought rather than doing any work fixing this engine..I wanted to change it for the RB20DE (get a bit more power with a little loss in fuel economy? (its my daily run around so can't afford the petrol bill of a turbo)

Does anyone know if this engine can be changed in to the my R33 chassis? Will it be a straight swap or do I need to change other things like the gearbox and clutch?

Thanks

Going on holiday for a week soon so thought I'd send my car to the garage while I'm away! :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64183-changing-from-rb20e-to-rb20de/
Share on other sites

Might be right about the rocker cover...I'm might be giving parts the wrong name! cheers. My oil pressure fluctuates while driving at steady speeds, could this be due to the loose rocker cover?

And yeah had a chat with my local mechanic...said the wiring probably needs changing and other bits and bobs which would add up to a big labour bill....might aswell get a proper engine put in!

So I think I will try the sealant for now!

Was hoping that it was just a case of unbolting the rb20e and dropping in the rb20de...nevermind. Just happened to come across a crashed RB20de.

Whats the fuel eco of RB25DET? I do 60miles (100km) everyday so i presume my fuel bill will be massive!

Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

Rocker cover dusnt have any affect on oil pressures... (what exactly are u talking about??)

oil pressue will fluctuate when u apply the throttle accordingly (there is a thread with the

correct oil pressures when idle, and throttle, etc - try a search)

Fuel economy varies as alot of force induced cars have either been boosted or have some form of extensive modification - I am not sure about the stock standard economy you

will have to try a search, or post in the forced induction section.

As for an RB25DE (non turbo) I have managed a bit over 1/4 tank for about 200km

that is about 20~25L driving pretty hard.

theres a big difference in price between a rb25de and a rb25det. If u wanna keep it non turbo then i recomend a rb25de. makes alot more torque. A decent mechanic should be able to do the labour costs for 500-600 i rekon, as this is wat i was quoted to do a rb25NEO in my r33. Bear is mind that other bits might need changin as well so these are additional costs.

Is the RB25DE and the RB25DE NEO-Spec a straight swap conversion? I am aware that

the Neo has a few extras such as stronger internals? and bits here and there...

but things such as wiring? ecu? compression? could you just swap the engine and retain

the old stuff.

Think the RB20E will be able to take a shot of N2O just for fun? or will the internals be a bit weak on this engine?

The oil pressure gauge shows a lower than usual reading every so often at idle and in motion. I know it should change on applying the throttle but the reading doesn't seem to show this.

There doesn't seem to be any performance problems, just the leaking engine.

Whatever, I'll leave that to the mechanic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...