Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing from RB20E to RB20DE


Recommended Posts

I have got a R33 GTS with RB20E engine in it. I think the head gasket is leaking as there is oil leaking around the top cover!!!

Anyways..I thought rather than doing any work fixing this engine..I wanted to change it for the RB20DE (get a bit more power with a little loss in fuel economy? (its my daily run around so can't afford the petrol bill of a turbo)

Does anyone know if this engine can be changed in to the my R33 chassis? Will it be a straight swap or do I need to change other things like the gearbox and clutch?

Thanks

Going on holiday for a week soon so thought I'd send my car to the garage while I'm away! :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be right about the rocker cover...I'm might be giving parts the wrong name! cheers. My oil pressure fluctuates while driving at steady speeds, could this be due to the loose rocker cover?

And yeah had a chat with my local mechanic...said the wiring probably needs changing and other bits and bobs which would add up to a big labour bill....might aswell get a proper engine put in!

So I think I will try the sealant for now!

Was hoping that it was just a case of unbolting the rb20e and dropping in the rb20de...nevermind. Just happened to come across a crashed RB20de.

Whats the fuel eco of RB25DET? I do 60miles (100km) everyday so i presume my fuel bill will be massive!

Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rocker cover dusnt have any affect on oil pressures... (what exactly are u talking about??)

oil pressue will fluctuate when u apply the throttle accordingly (there is a thread with the

correct oil pressures when idle, and throttle, etc - try a search)

Fuel economy varies as alot of force induced cars have either been boosted or have some form of extensive modification - I am not sure about the stock standard economy you

will have to try a search, or post in the forced induction section.

As for an RB25DE (non turbo) I have managed a bit over 1/4 tank for about 200km

that is about 20~25L driving pretty hard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

theres a big difference in price between a rb25de and a rb25det. If u wanna keep it non turbo then i recomend a rb25de. makes alot more torque. A decent mechanic should be able to do the labour costs for 500-600 i rekon, as this is wat i was quoted to do a rb25NEO in my r33. Bear is mind that other bits might need changin as well so these are additional costs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the RB25DE and the RB25DE NEO-Spec a straight swap conversion? I am aware that

the Neo has a few extras such as stronger internals? and bits here and there...

but things such as wiring? ecu? compression? could you just swap the engine and retain

the old stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Think the RB20E will be able to take a shot of N2O just for fun? or will the internals be a bit weak on this engine?

The oil pressure gauge shows a lower than usual reading every so often at idle and in motion. I know it should change on applying the throttle but the reading doesn't seem to show this.

There doesn't seem to be any performance problems, just the leaking engine.

Whatever, I'll leave that to the mechanic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
    • I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
    • I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 
×
×
  • Create New...