Jump to content
SAU Community

No offence to any one BUT.......


Recommended Posts

so more people who want to sign up to be members before the cruise happens can miss out? Sweet.

They could sign up today, and find out when the cruise is tomorrow. And the cruise isn't tomorrow sot hey won't miss out :D

ECR 33 - Hi, it's pretty basic really. There is a lot of planning and time that go's into these events. You've probably noticed that there are not a lot of cruises in the open Vic section these days, and you might of seen this thread from a couple of weeks ago.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=63303

Now the right idea was there but have a look through the thread and how many people are willing to put some time and effort into the organisation of things? Not many huh!

Fact is there are litteraly 100's of emails between the committee planning events etc and this takes a hell of a lot of time a good example was ther show and shine on the weekend. Anyway the bottom line is the open formus are still here, you can still run your own great ocean road cruise like the previous years it's just you or one of the open forum memebrs will have to plan it just like we did in the old days......

Mate,

An official club is offering you a service and it's up to you to take it, or not.

Do you evaluate every single amount you spend (we are talking about a few cents per week here) against what you receive in return...?

If you don't drive your car for a few days in a row, do you raise the issue with RTA and ask for fairer registration options...?

If you put a buck in a parking meter for an hour of parking, but finish your business in half an hour, do you sit in your car for the other half of the hour...?

well while reading the cams manual I came across a "Level 1 Promotional license" so I rang up the friendly staff at the cams state office and asked em what it was and if we could use it...

for $20 you get temporary access to a promotional part of a cams event. you don't have to be a paid member of that club to get the promotional license. The $20 is also refundable on your L2 license when you go to get it as long as you can show the reciept.

What the guy I spoke to said was, with that promotional license a non member could "trial" out the event and sign up if they liked em, and the club would still be covered by CAMS liability insurance.

However, he also said, its there to be used for example if we organise a track day and want to get non members interested by offering em a lap around the track during the lunch break, and that a cruise on an open road might not allow for the use of a promotional cams L1 license, but he wasn't sure because no one had ever asked, so he said to put the application in and if we got it we could give em out on the day, and if not then we don't.

I dunno if $20 is any better than $50 (personally i'd rather pay the extra $30 and be done with it for the rest of the year) for you guys, but its an option that we can explore if you want us to.

Adzmax you raise the issue of "people not being willing to organise events".

If someone wants to organise an "open" cruise, and invite everyone, how are they meant to go about choosing a date?

What happens if the date they choose collides with an "official" club event?

Non members have no way of knowing when events are being held if they can't see the dates.

If someone organises a cruise, and the date clashes with something which is already oragnised, how are people meant to know?

Do "non members" need to consult with committee members in regards to dates if they want to organise a cruise?

I can see this being an issue some time in the future.

IMHO 96c per month is nothing for a membership... The organisers organise excellent events and seem to do their best to give everyone what they want. It is afterall an enthusiasts club. If you want to be a member, be one. Don't be a non-member and complain because it is your choice to join or not!

Dude, you own a GTR but dont' want to spend the measly membership fee?

Goes to show as much as you try your best there are some people you can't please.

My suggestion is for people to join up and participate as it is *our* club and its up to us to give the appropriate feedback, help etc to improve it and help it grow.

Guys don't be too hard on him, he raised a reasonable point, he didn't say the whole things was bad, just that some members living far away do not receive the full benifits. This is a fair point but the fact is meetings a formal thing, we have them because re are required to. These business side of things, sure it's a great chance to attend and meet memebrs and have a good feed but if you miss them that doesn't mean your not getting your money's worth....

Good point. As far as I am awear (I may be wrong) the event calender is open to view for all. This means both members and non members can have a quick look and plan around SAU Vic events :rofl: I will double check this for you guys now.

Yes, thats the purpose behind the calendar.

Onus is on the oganiser to check that calendar before doing anything

IMHO 96c per month is nothing for a membership... The organisers organise excellent events and seem to do their best to give everyone what they want. It is afterall an enthusiasts club. If you want to be a member, be one. Don't be a non-member and complain because it is your choice to join or not!

I think you mean 96c per week :rofl:

yes the calendar... where we list ALL events (official, unofficial, SAU invites etc). If you organise an event or I see an event in the events section then I usually put it in the calendar. Check in there that there's no clashes and you'll be fine.

Which means yes, all official event dates will have to be listed anyways with details in the members section.

What happens when someone chooses to organise an event on the same date as an "official" event?

(someone has to stir the pot)  :)

we will hire ninja's to execute the organiser of the mutinous cruise while they sleep.

serious answer:

then we have two events listed on the calendar on the same date.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...