Jump to content
SAU Community

Where to get Power fc tuned around ACT?

performance-wise
 Share

Recommended Posts

performance-wise Grand Master

performance-wise

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i would'nt take my power fc to be tuned at Integra, purely because Ed admitts himself that he still has a bit to learn about them, and a couple of the guys tuning results hav'nt been to great just recently.

This quote is from a SAU member from canberra who said this yesterday in the servicing thread?? :confused:

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
This quote is from a SAU member from canberra who said this yesterday in the servicing thread?? :confused:

*shrug* you hear good and bad things about everyone... tuning is simply setting air/fuel ratios and timing, theres nothing overly complex about it in the end. He's confident with mine, seems to know all the ins and outs of it and I have -never- had a problem with his tuning, it has always been satisfactory. Hell last week we booked the dyno for a few hours, and only got it on for a few power runs, and running rich (safe) it made 323kw which im happy with.

The only reason I can think of people being not happy with his results is if he is setting them rich so dunces dont flog them in summer and then wonder why they go pop. But last time I checked Ed has popped 0 engines from power fc tuning, compared to at least 2 GTR's I know of that have gone bang due to poor tuning at another unnamed place in Canberra in the past 4 - 6 weeks.

You asked for opinion on who is the best in Canberra, I gave you mine. As far as I am concerned Ed has the most extensive knowledge of the power fc in Canberra. If you start comparing him to places like Croydon/Hills Motorsport/Advanced then its another story, but even then his results arnt far off what they can get, and he is getting better by the day.

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...