Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeepz iv noticed this noise coming from the front where my cam gears are and its making a vibrating growling weird noise like a flutter sound when i rev to about 1500rpm when its cold however when the car is running on normal temp the sound dispaears abit what would the problem be i have taken the cover off n checked if it was loose bolt or a metal peice stuck any where n stuff but nothing looked wrong has any one had this problem or knows what the problem is thankz guyz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64991-problem-with-the-cams/
Share on other sites

I think I had the same noise before I had my 100,000km service, got the belt, tensioner and idler bearings replaced. It was not a cheap trip to the mechanics that was origionally just supposed to be a tune up.

They said I had a serious timing belt noise and recomended I change ASAP. That was Gavin Wood Autotech on the Gold Coast so I trusted them and had it done.

Get the cambelt and pullys check. I had the same noise ...along with it sounding like there was a cricket living in my housing. Well I left it a little to long, snapped the belt and bent 4 valves.

The idle pulley had be refitted after getting the cambelt replaced (done when car was complied), some idiot put a washer behind the pully and this threw the allignment out. It ran the belt against the housing and wore it from the standard thickness of 1' down to a 12 inch thick.

I had my water pump replaced recently, and they needed to get the timing belt off. When they put it back on, it was way too tight, and made noises on idle once it warmed up. When cold it made no noise...

Also check to see if it the bearings on your A/C, alternator or power steering.

To do that, take one belt off at a time to see if it stops..

ok well im pritty sure its my cam gear bearings coz my dad said the same thing as u guys  said, where would i get it fixed is there a good place in melbourne?? thankz guyzzzzzzz

id say its you timing belt not cam bearings, they dont have cam bearings you can replace, they are just machined journals in the head and caps. i did a timing belt for a friends rb25 and before i did it was making similar noise to you were talking about, found belt pretty lose. After i replace the belt it was all fine. just my opinon from your discription

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...