Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I blew my RB20DET 5spd man box at local drags using slicks

Whats the best way to get strengh so this wont happen again

now im contemplating in either using a RB25DET 5spd as they are supposed to be stronger than the RB20DET unit, Also will my RB20 clutch (exedy HD) be ok to use with the RB25 box??

or is there any auto boxes that are strong that will work, like RB20 or RB25???

I just dont want to go back out again and destroy another gearbox on slicks...

Do in this order

1.Bin RB20det box

2.Laugh at how small it is

3.Find RB25det box

4.Admire it's fatness and giggle like a school girl

But seriously it will bolt to the RB20,use the RB20 flywheel/clutch,you need to mod the gearbox mount with some flat bar,use R33 slave,shifter and the yoke or vlt yoke.Speedo,if it's cable I hear a cut down?vlt sender could work

How much power are you making, and what sort of rpm did u decide to dump the clutch at? Are you wanting a straight bolt up gearbox, im guessing you have an rb20 in a vl? what about the mx7? rb30et gearbox. You could always get anything, just depending how much money you want to spend. You could go all out and get a tremec tko 6 spd :rolleyes: haha

MX-7's are weak as shit too.

they are soo old they just shatter. I've seen heaps die here in Vic.

Mine, and a mates.

Get an RB25 box and you'll be fine. Just make sure you get a yoke with it.

whats the point of a yoke when they are pressed and seal uni joints and have to be scrapped???

I got a yoke with my 5psd but when i took it to the driveline place they said they couldnt use it. I think i ended up getting a suitable Mark William "V8 Supercar spec" yoke with replaceable uni joints for SFA

you can use em. I need one for my 25box to fit to my car.

tierh that or its the driveshaft... so i got both. :rolleyes:

been a while since my workshop has done a 25 box... as usually cars aint POS's like mine... hehe

i am in the middle of the same gearbox convert. All boxes seem to be from $1500 to $2000. The yolks as far as i know can be blended with the standard uni. I have a friend who did this convert and thats what he did and it seemed to work. Not 100% sure but thats what he said.

Are you guys still talking about a second hand box???

Why bother putting in a box that has had the k's wound up on it already, and god knows how that was treated. Why dont you just get a box and rebuild it properly with all new bearing cogs, the lot. Of course strengthened parts. Might cost more, but hey, for that peace of mind ...

and mx7's arent that bad, i had a vlt gave them thing so much shit, was on the way out when i got it, and was still going 18 mths later. with plenty of flat changes. haha

From what I have heard they are the same strength but the RB25 Box has much better designed syncros.

Yeah, I would agree with that completely, thats what should have been said in the first place by the other users.

;)

Tizzle,

32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly

If they ask what model car say Navara. shouldnt cost more than $26

I got mine from Metro Nissan at Windsor... Those guys are complete wankers in my opinion.. Good luck ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...