Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

Car Stats:

1993 R33 GTST Auto

Blitz FMIC

Manual Boost Controller

POD

Blitz 3" Cat Back Exhaust

HKS Fuel Cut Defender

The Story:

Car was missing very badly when boosting over 5 PSI - Taped the coils as a temporary measure to see if it fixed it. Once taped the car ran perfect up to 12 PSI (we didn't try to boost it any higher due to lack of after market gauge).

For a more permanant fix owner removed tape - and used a gasket compound to seal them - apparently it's not a insulator though (how stupid!) but that cannot be confirmed as he forgets exact brand/type. Once the gasket shit was hard he took it for a drive - was running fine. He gave it a bit of a 1/4 mile run through the gears (wanna-be manual driver :rolleyes:). Just after he thrashed it a bit at 10 PSI with the gasket shit in place a HUGE cloud of white/blueish smoke came form the exhaust when he got off the gas. The car then seemed to be running VERY rough at idle - a bit like if only 6 cylinders were firing. The car still bosts - but when he gives it some smoke comes out, and a large cloud as he gets off the gas.

He turned boost back to 1 PSI roughly to drive home (about 20 mins drive), just as he got home oil pressure dropped to about 1 (from just above 4 where it usualy sits). He checked oil and it was almost empty - I assume as it had all been burnt off....

Is the motor ****ed? Turbo? whgat could cause this? Could the fact that maybe one of the coils is shorting out onto the head due to the fact a insulator was not used (maybe) cause this?

I suspected turbo - but no noise in turbo just as knocking/grinding etc - and the car still hits boost ok. There was a bit of a knocking sound in the motor a few days prior - but could only be heard with head under bonnet - and would last for about half a second just as you gave it a few revs from idle.

Any idea's guys???

check for alot of oil in inlet and exhaust dump pipe etc. carry out compression test. pulling out the plugs would tell you if you melted a piston as it would be all oily and look like it hasnt been firing. there just a few thins to check off the top of my head

Take the spark plug out of number 6 & 1 cylinder and check for lots if oil, if the plugs are wet with oil then for sure you have blown your ringlands & maby a hole down the side, Don't drive the car any more as it will only do more dammage.

Time to chuck in a set of forged piston's.

:cheers:

Nathan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...