Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres the measurements from my stock cooler which was removed last week from my R33 S1 GTST( gun metal grey :) )

225 x 185 x 59 - core size

350 - end tanks included

55 - inlet/outlet size

As GTST said "just under PISS SMALL"

:cheers:

  • 2 years later...
whats kind of boost can stock intercooler handle?

imo, i wouldnt increase boost through the stock smic. due to the small dimensions of smic it gets "heat-soaked" pretty quickly on stock boost. i mean you can up the boost, but be aware that your smic will get heat soaked even quicker.

invest in a bigger fmic and your away.

hope that helps!

cheers

imo, i wouldnt increase boost through the stock smic. due to the small dimensions of smic it gets "heat-soaked" pretty quickly on stock boost. i mean you can up the boost, but be aware that your smic will get heat soaked even quicker.

invest in a bigger fmic and your away.

hope that helps!

cheers

Some real world info for you.

the stock intercooler handles efficiently more boost than the factory turbo can safely put out. It flows reasonably and an R34 variant upto around 230rwkw. Do a search under Sydneykid and stock intercooler, to find his test data.

It won't get even remotely 'heat soaked' if driven on a street / track senario at those power levels (ie: over 200rwkw).

You can fit a better design of intercooler having said that, but like someone has already said get something thats the correct size for the job. My advice is to swap coolers once you have a turbo upgrade/ power plan worked out.

Hope that helps.

Edited by rev210

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...