Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have a R32 auto and I just bought a shift kit for it to improve the gear changes. I also bought some fancy RedLine Hi-Temp Trans Fluid to go with it?

The only concern I have is I think I can feel it slipping when driving but I’m not sure.

Also, once I was trying to warm up the tires a bit. I was holding my foot on the brake and pressing the accelerator pedal and the RPM's went up but wheels didn't move. I don't think I was holding the brake too hard.

Is there any way to really know if it's slipping or not, as I would hate it if I put this fluid in, just to find out it's all for nothing.

The RedLine stuff is about $120+ for less than 4L and I need at least 2 of those.

Any help will be really appreciated.

Thanx.

what was happening when you had your foot on the accelerator and the brake was called stall speed, its perfectly normal

its the maximum speed the impeller can turn while the turbine is stationary in the torque converter

never do that for more than five seconds because the transmision oil get pretty toasty

what you have effectivly done there is perfored what is called a stall test

what you want to look for is if the reves flare up past stall speed

then you have a slipping transmision

also when your driving it hard if the revs shoot up all of a sudden and it doesnt produce any power thats the same thing

hope this was helpfull

racsov500 - no, i don't get any hopping

DRFTR33 - I know about the stall speed. I think it's about 2500 RPM on a R32. I believe I was up around 4000 RPM and the wheels were still stationary. Also, when goin from 2nd to 3rd, once in 3rd it sounds like the revs go up and then die down. I'll do another stall test tonight and see how I go.

Adam - No I haven't installed it yet. I wanna make sure the gearbox is OK before I do so.

If the gearbox is slipping, is it as simple as replacing the torque converter or is there more to be done than that. The Auto gearboxes go arounds for peanuts. :)

Thanx for replies guys, very muck appreciated.

I had a slipping clutch in my car, was a manual though. Did the same thing as yours, in third the car would rev high, die down and then build up again. clutch lasted like this for about 3-4 months before finally going.

what DRFTR33 said..

when it slips.. basically it'll sit there free spinning for a while, before it changes into the next gear. So you'll notice the shifts are a lot more sloppy and slower than they should otherwise do. Mine does that on my R32..

If you have a really shagged auto box it will slip even under moderate load and if very bad even whilst driving fairly sedately.

I've noticed it's mainly if you're revving off at 7000rpm.. below that it's not too bad. I think with the turbo skylines, it's a case that the engine loves revving, but the auto box doesn't :)

Well last nite I went to warm up the tires and test the gearbox.

I was sitting there watching my RPM's and at 2500 it started pushing the car forward. At 3000 I applied more brake and it broke traction. Revs were not uncontrollably rising. I did 3 tests and I was happy with the result.

But then I went for a drive with full throttle just to cool the fluid a bit, and once I ran out of revs in second it wouldn't change to 3rd. It seamed like it was in 2 instead of D and it was hitting the rev cut. I let it cool down a bit and it worked fine afterwards. Weird.

Also, I get very loud popping out of the exhaust if I rev out in the first before it changes to second. It sounds like a machine gun but with a skyline note. :uzi: People usually think I can't drive when they hear it, and it always attracts a few puzzled looks. :devfu:

So I've decided to take my chance and install the kit on this gearbox and see how it goes.

I will keep you all posted.

Thanx for the input guys.

It probably needs a good ole fashioned service. A proper auto transmission place should do it for about $100. You may have to tell them that its a Jatco just like the R31 aussie skylines had.

Get them to install the valve body while their at it and bobs your uncle. Shouldn't cost much at all. They will also be able to tell what kind of condition it is in internally as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...