Jump to content
SAU Community

Tuning the Power FC

Muz

By Muz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Muz Experienced

Muz

Posted
Posted

Sorry guys but I just have to ask. Having fitted a boost controller (apexi) to the Power FC, I see that it has 4 settings for different boost levels on the hand controller. Now here is the question? Does this mean that I need to tune the maps for each setting or does the PFC (wonderful piece of kit) automatically adjust/compensate for the different settings?

I'm not a mechanic or techo so please be gentle.

Cheers

Muz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65745-tuning-the-power-fc/
Share on other sites
cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Muz,

You can set 4 different boost level's

eg:

1. 7psi

2. 10psi

3. 12psi

4 14psi

The ignition & fuel map will have to be tuned for setting 4, as its the highest boost setting so you don't get leaning out problem's etc. You can still run the other settings just it will feel sluggish because their will be the right amount of fuel for 14psi not 7psi etc... :(

:D

Jun

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted
Muz,

You can still run the other settings just it will feel sluggish because their will be the right amount of fuel for 14psi not 7psi etc... :(

:D

Jun

Thats wrong.

It will run fine.

More boost measures more air flow through the air flow meter. So it will add fuel accordingly. If you are running less boost it will only add fuel for that amount of engine air flow.

The air flow meter doesn't care what boost it is, it just adds fuel according to the air the motor uses.

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

You would tune your engine maps right up to your maximum boost level. (maximum airflow)

And then anywhere in between manifold vacuum and maximum boost pressure it will add fuel according to the engine air flow at that point as measured from the air flow meter.

At lower boost there is less airflow obviously, so the AFM measures this and adds fuel for the smaller amount of air flow. If you run high boost it will measure more air flow and add more fuel.

Its really that simple, the principle anyway...

JCMarshall_Law Proficient

JCMarshall_Law

Posted
Posted

Does the PFC have tha capability to store 4 different maps for the 4 different boost levels, so that when you adjust the boost level, the correct map is automatically loaded? That would be ideal.

I guess the maps are not going to be significantly different up to a certian load on the engine anyway.

BTW: My knowledge of EFI tuning is limited at best.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Does the PFC have tha capability to store 4 different maps for the 4 different boost levels, so that when you adjust the boost level, the correct map is automatically loaded? That would be ideal.

I guess the maps are not going to be significantly different up to a certian load on the engine anyway.

BTW: My knowledge of EFI tuning is limited at best.

The PowerFC only has the capability to store 1 map.

I'm not to sure how the 4 boost levels are used. Maybe its time to read the manual. lol.

55Nat Enthusiast

55Nat

Posted
Posted
Thats wrong.  

It will run fine.

More boost measures more air flow through the air flow meter. So it will add fuel accordingly. If you are running less boost it will only add fuel for that amount of engine air flow.

The air flow meter doesn't care what boost it is, it just adds fuel according to the air the motor uses.

The o2 sensor controls the A/F ratio's and this only happens with closed loop enabled on the FC HC, with closed loop off it purly runs from the map load points.

If you were refering to closed loop mode then this is really pointless as the standard o2 sensor does not act very fast to high RPM, its known as Slow & Narrow and inless you have a wide band lambda sensor the A/F's wont be change very accuratly.

Eg:

Closed loop is used for mainly cruising tol lean the a/f ratio's out for better fuel ecomomy but this happen's after a few min's of cruising at the same speed.

:D

Nathan

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Are you saying you have a comprehensive manual in english?

Not sure about comprehensive but I do have a English PDF Hand Controller manual in english.

Nathan, if closed loop kicks in after a few minutes of cruising its time for a new o2 sensor. Watch the o2 sensor on the h/c. It kicks in to closed loop mode no less than a fraction of a second once you start cruising.

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted

There is no difference running your car on zero boost with the boost controller set on 10psi or 20psi, so there is no need for a different map. The power Fc is tuned at different load points and each load point represents air flow. You can trace the load points on the mapping on the Power Fc. Say, at 10psi, you are getting to load 10, then your car is tuned to load 10. If you raise your boost to say 15psi then you may reach load 12 on your power fc. Then loads 11 & 12 need to be tuned. If you get spike somwhere, you may reach load 13 at say 4500 rpm, but may drop down to load 12 at 5000rpm. Thats why you need to keep an eye on knock levels in case it hasnt been tuned there.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

I am not sure I understand this thread at all, it doesn't make sense to me. Let me explain why....

The 4 boost settings on the PFC are exactly that 4 BOOST SETTINGS. If you want 1 bar then select 1 Bar, if you want 1.5 bar then select 1.5 bar. All this does is enable the ECU to tell the boost control solenoid when (how often) to close so as to limit the boost to that level. Nothing more, that's it.

You tune the maps for the maximum airflow you want to run. Whether you get there at 1 bar or 3 bar is irrelevant. The AFM measured the airflow and the ecu tells the injectors how much fuel to squirt according to the maps you have loaded.

Obviously a Power FC without a Boost Control Kit fitted still works fine, there is no boost table to set. On some cars the PFC doesn't even know the boost level (no map sensor). It simply doesn't need to, as long as it knows the airflow (via the afm) then it can do its job of matching fuel and air.

That's one of the advantages of an AFM sensor driven ecu.

Hope that clarifies:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...