Jump to content
SAU Community

Tuning the Power FC

Muz

By Muz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Muz Experienced

Muz

Posted
Posted

Sorry guys but I just have to ask. Having fitted a boost controller (apexi) to the Power FC, I see that it has 4 settings for different boost levels on the hand controller. Now here is the question? Does this mean that I need to tune the maps for each setting or does the PFC (wonderful piece of kit) automatically adjust/compensate for the different settings?

I'm not a mechanic or techo so please be gentle.

Cheers

Muz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65745-tuning-the-power-fc/
Share on other sites
cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Muz,

You can set 4 different boost level's

eg:

1. 7psi

2. 10psi

3. 12psi

4 14psi

The ignition & fuel map will have to be tuned for setting 4, as its the highest boost setting so you don't get leaning out problem's etc. You can still run the other settings just it will feel sluggish because their will be the right amount of fuel for 14psi not 7psi etc... :(

:D

Jun

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted
Muz,

You can still run the other settings just it will feel sluggish because their will be the right amount of fuel for 14psi not 7psi etc... :(

:D

Jun

Thats wrong.

It will run fine.

More boost measures more air flow through the air flow meter. So it will add fuel accordingly. If you are running less boost it will only add fuel for that amount of engine air flow.

The air flow meter doesn't care what boost it is, it just adds fuel according to the air the motor uses.

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

You would tune your engine maps right up to your maximum boost level. (maximum airflow)

And then anywhere in between manifold vacuum and maximum boost pressure it will add fuel according to the engine air flow at that point as measured from the air flow meter.

At lower boost there is less airflow obviously, so the AFM measures this and adds fuel for the smaller amount of air flow. If you run high boost it will measure more air flow and add more fuel.

Its really that simple, the principle anyway...

JCMarshall_Law Proficient

JCMarshall_Law

Posted
Posted

Does the PFC have tha capability to store 4 different maps for the 4 different boost levels, so that when you adjust the boost level, the correct map is automatically loaded? That would be ideal.

I guess the maps are not going to be significantly different up to a certian load on the engine anyway.

BTW: My knowledge of EFI tuning is limited at best.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Does the PFC have tha capability to store 4 different maps for the 4 different boost levels, so that when you adjust the boost level, the correct map is automatically loaded? That would be ideal.

I guess the maps are not going to be significantly different up to a certian load on the engine anyway.

BTW: My knowledge of EFI tuning is limited at best.

The PowerFC only has the capability to store 1 map.

I'm not to sure how the 4 boost levels are used. Maybe its time to read the manual. lol.

55Nat Enthusiast

55Nat

Posted
Posted
Thats wrong.  

It will run fine.

More boost measures more air flow through the air flow meter. So it will add fuel accordingly. If you are running less boost it will only add fuel for that amount of engine air flow.

The air flow meter doesn't care what boost it is, it just adds fuel according to the air the motor uses.

The o2 sensor controls the A/F ratio's and this only happens with closed loop enabled on the FC HC, with closed loop off it purly runs from the map load points.

If you were refering to closed loop mode then this is really pointless as the standard o2 sensor does not act very fast to high RPM, its known as Slow & Narrow and inless you have a wide band lambda sensor the A/F's wont be change very accuratly.

Eg:

Closed loop is used for mainly cruising tol lean the a/f ratio's out for better fuel ecomomy but this happen's after a few min's of cruising at the same speed.

:D

Nathan

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Are you saying you have a comprehensive manual in english?

Not sure about comprehensive but I do have a English PDF Hand Controller manual in english.

Nathan, if closed loop kicks in after a few minutes of cruising its time for a new o2 sensor. Watch the o2 sensor on the h/c. It kicks in to closed loop mode no less than a fraction of a second once you start cruising.

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted

There is no difference running your car on zero boost with the boost controller set on 10psi or 20psi, so there is no need for a different map. The power Fc is tuned at different load points and each load point represents air flow. You can trace the load points on the mapping on the Power Fc. Say, at 10psi, you are getting to load 10, then your car is tuned to load 10. If you raise your boost to say 15psi then you may reach load 12 on your power fc. Then loads 11 & 12 need to be tuned. If you get spike somwhere, you may reach load 13 at say 4500 rpm, but may drop down to load 12 at 5000rpm. Thats why you need to keep an eye on knock levels in case it hasnt been tuned there.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

I am not sure I understand this thread at all, it doesn't make sense to me. Let me explain why....

The 4 boost settings on the PFC are exactly that 4 BOOST SETTINGS. If you want 1 bar then select 1 Bar, if you want 1.5 bar then select 1.5 bar. All this does is enable the ECU to tell the boost control solenoid when (how often) to close so as to limit the boost to that level. Nothing more, that's it.

You tune the maps for the maximum airflow you want to run. Whether you get there at 1 bar or 3 bar is irrelevant. The AFM measured the airflow and the ecu tells the injectors how much fuel to squirt according to the maps you have loaded.

Obviously a Power FC without a Boost Control Kit fitted still works fine, there is no boost table to set. On some cars the PFC doesn't even know the boost level (no map sensor). It simply doesn't need to, as long as it knows the airflow (via the afm) then it can do its job of matching fuel and air.

That's one of the advantages of an AFM sensor driven ecu.

Hope that clarifies:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...