Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I had a good search through the forums but wasnt able to find anything that would help much, hoping you experts might be able to shed some light on whats going on.

Yesterday I bought a GFB adjustable boost valve. I have a 93 R33 GTST which has a factory electronic boost controller, that seems to boost the turbo from about 5psi to about 7psi once the engine hits about 4500rpm ...

To install the after market valve/controller, i disconnected the factory electronic controller (solenoid), blocked off the hose that vented pressure back into the air inlet, and connected the after market controller between the two hoses that USED to go into the factry electronic controller (i assume the bleed valve around the wastegate?)...... Firstly ... im hoping this is correct. (i can get some pictures posted up if your note sure what I mean).

Anyway, I wound the valve right down to the lowest setting (supposedly factory boost for the turbo) and gave the car a run .... no problems driving the car normally, however when I start to nail it a bit in second and sometimes third .. when the car reaches about 4000-5000rpm, the boost suddenly skyroockets on the guage, however i loose boost to the engine, and thre car starts to jolt like boost is coming on, off, on, off, on .. etc etc ... almost like its reached peak boost? or not enough air in? no idea!!

Can anyone help with this? I dont have much experience with moddng engines, though I did have a friend helping who knew a fair bit about it, but its got him stumpped too. I tried it both with the factory controller connected to power, and disconnected from power (thinking it may have been an ECU thing?) .. still no good.

Any help would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks

Picture's will help,

Have you got a boost guage this might help, seeing what it hits when you said "skyrockets"...

Sounds like its hitting fuel cut - 14psi around abouts. Or its have a miss-fire becuase you are running more boost the spark on the spark plugs can't jump the gap and its arking out to other places and not giving a strong enough spark

Re-gap the plugs to 0.7 if this already has not been done.

:)

Jun

the bleed valve should go inbetween the wastegate and the inlet pipe (going towards the throttle body) and the bottom vaccum hose on the standard boost controler should be blocked off with a bolt or srew (whatever u can find).

The spark plugs should be gapped to 0.8mm

P.S dont kill your turbo!!!!

Hi,

Thanks for your assistance guys ... any more hits/tips would be apreciated. I might try a few things, including putting an after-marker guage on to see exact boost.

Can someone tell me ... what boost/psi can a stock r33 run (generally) before its getting a bit too high ? 10psi? 12psi? 14psi ?

All its got is pod filter, BOV and GFB adjustable boost.

I dont wana go too high and blow it.

I have the same problem as you...............

at the moment im saving up to fix it. Either regap to .7 or .8 mm OR fix it with splitfire coilpacks. $650 ish....

my cousin has the same setup but he's car doesnt do it, just mine :-( you also might want to upgrade the fuel pump.

  • 2 months later...

yeh i had same problem.. when i took it to a performance shop they said my boost controller was incorectly fitted, and now that its off it runs fine.. im getting it refitted this week (properly i hope) on the dyno, so il c if it was the incorrect fitting that was doing it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...