Jump to content
SAU Community

Greddy E-Manage or Apexi PFC?

|PRESA|

By |PRESA|,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

|PRESA| Proficient

|PRESA|

Posted
Posted

Ok gang.. I realise they are two different applications yet both have a similar job in mind.

Just a little basic info on my mods, I have a 3" turbo back, Apexi Pod, Bleed valve @ 10psi and I'm tossing up between a Greddy R-SPL or Blitz LM front mount.

More likely a Greddy R-SPL.

So anyway I'm looking for a stable Engine Management unit that will be able to support around 250rwkw. My future plans are to get the turbo hi-flowed, bigger fuel pump to cope after the hi flow, adjustable cam gears to bring boost on a little earlier, adjustable fuel pressure regulator to pump those injectors so they don't max out.

Your probably thinking if his doing all this why not get the PFC... well it's gonna take a lot of saving to hopefully aim to get these mods done by the end of the year (Dam poor a$$ office job) and I think once I get the cooler this will probably make the fuel system abit rich and instead of going the SAFC-2 I'd get the Greddy E-Manage.

So can I have your opinions on this? Considering Greddy E-Manage is around $550 and the Apexi PFC is $1450.

Thanks for everyones help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66012-greddy-e-manage-or-apexi-pfc/
Share on other sites
BiZzReVhEad Community Regular

BiZzReVhEad

Posted
Posted

Yer well im in the same boat as u .. Im thinking of getting a E-manage , but also cant afford the PFC for budget reasons . There is also a HKS unit F-CON V pro which is supposed to be good to . I think ill be getting the greddy one thou

I found this , might help http://www.takakaira.com/performance/main.html

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

powerfc is $1100 delivered from nengun. powerfc will do 250rwkw easily. speak to your local tuner and see what they would prefer or what they consider better/easier as they're the ones tuning it. i know nothing about the emanage but have powerfc on my r33. also speak to your tuner for a fmic kit install, will be cheaper than an unfitted jap kit and should flow the same.

|PRESA| Proficient

|PRESA|

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I actually don't have a tuner =

I do all my own service and everything I've installed so far has been simle bolt ons.

I'm thinking about heading over to Ice Performance, I had a couple chats with the boys over there and they seem quite good. Although I've heard you have to book a few week in advance, which is a downer.

rd-runr Community Regular

rd-runr

Posted
Posted

Have a read of the sticky on what is a greddy emanage at the top of these forums. Gives ideas of the capabilities of it. The emanage can be bought as a direct plug in kit so that you don't need to rewire it. Its probably best to find out what the tuners around there are more familiar with PFC or Emanage, Although I don't expect them to be drastically different!

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Power FC is a full replacement computer, there is no comparison between that and an EManage which is a piggy back. If you buy the stuff to get an EManage even close to a Power FC, it will cost more anyway. If you want to tune air/fuel ratrios only, then the SAFC is a cheaper solution, that looses nothing to an EManage. If you are really tight on budget try the Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster kit, just as good as the SAFC for 1/5th the price. But you do need to able to read instructions and solder components on circuit boards.:)

  • 2 months later...
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
what if you can't use the power fc cause my car is auto? The e-manage has one made for my car to run with the auto, so would that be my best option?

The SAFC will do everything that the EManage does in regards to tuning the A/F ratios (as will the DFA). The only reason for choosing the EManage would be to try the ignition tuning option, but I have yet to see a dyno comparison that indicates success from that implementation. And at the same time retain the standard ECU programming for ignition retard on gearchanges in an auto.

So if anyone has done it successfully, please post up the results.

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...