Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey mate.

Just curious as to why you say the High Flow's are only 300hp when GCG and a few other places all quote there turbos at 450hp?

Just did a bit of a serch and a lot of people are getting 230-250rwkw's out of there high flows... Sydney Kid being the exception with 264kw

Also Does it matter if I get a R32 turbo highflowed instead of a R33 one (if cost is a huge difference between the two)?

as I will be buying a 2nd hand turbo and getting that done so I can bolt it on when I have all of my parts ready to go.

I am looking to upgrade the turbo in the next month or so. Just waiting on the bank balance to rise just a touch more.

Thanks mate

Yes, the highflows are only rated at around that figure. And like I said previously, it doesn't mean you can't get 250 rwkw out of your engine with that turbo on. It just means that the turbo is working overtime and is not built to withstand punishment to that degree. Those turbos are capable of handling those horsepower figures but for how long? If you fit things like oil coolers and use a 360 degree thrust bearing, then you will have no trouble supporting 250 rwkw and still have a reliable turbo.

Another example.

Get yourself a 1000hp Skyline and bolt on a highflow turbo. Give it a couple of laps around Philip island and I bet there won't be much left of it. It will also reduce the performance of the engine somewhat.

It is all about getting the turbo that matches your engine and mods.

The other thing I forgot to mention was that I was getting almost 220 rwkw out of my RB20 highflow on standard injectors and standard ECU. That was pretty much the max for it though as injectors limit the horsepower.

So like I said before, you can still get the 250 rwkw but you can't gaurantee the life of the turbo. Plus for the extra $500 you would be mad not to put on something better suited and put out 300 rwkw

How much horsepower/kilowatts do you want? 230rwkw

What are you using the car for? eg. Street/drag

When do you want boost roughly? coming on from 2200...full @ 4000

Do you want power early or late in the rev range? mid-late - i dont mind a Little lag if if will give a better top end hit...must last to redline

What Mods you engine has or is going to have including computers or exhaust etc.? zorst, intake, FMIC, fuelpump, injectors, probably a power fc, possibly cams

Obviously, what car? S13 with a RB20DET

Intercooled? and is it large, small, medium? medium at his stage....VR4 cooler - apprantly flows enough for 230rwkw

Still running AFM or upgraded or no longer there? stock Rb20 80mm AFM

Custom exhaust manifold or standard? (custom exhaust manifolds give you more options) stock manifold - as below....preffered stock but non stock if price is right

External wastegate or internal(limited to virtually 450hp - internal gate preferred but external if price is right

thx jason :rofl:

Mate, if you only want 230 rwkw. I should be able to get you something for around $1700 that will come on full boost at 3000rpm and last way past redline.

General rule is....if your engine stops producing power, so will the turbo. Or even if the engine reduces in power, so will the turbo.

You would probably be best to go for something like a GT25/30. you would be best to wait until they come out with the T3 flange configuration as this will mean a couple of hundred less in fitting costs.

well i think i'll definately want 1x GT35r with the .82 housing so thats $1900 ??

and i may also want a 1.06 exhaust housing for the GT35r (my current one has .82) $ ??

if you want you can PM me more details or a contact number :D

Cheers

Dave

The 2530 on the RB20 is actually quite a nice combo.

Its all in by 4000rpm and makes really good power.

On the RB25 I think its a little small, especially when you consider they only make 220-230rwkw max. The stock turbo makes 190rwkw or with an adj. cam gear maybe 200 depending on the dyno.

Bare minimum on the rb25 I would go the 2535. 240rwkw is fairly decent for the outlay.

Comparing the rb20 to a 25 is like comparing a dyno graph of a 25 to a 30. :D

The 2530 on the RB20 is actually quite a nice combo.

Its all in by 4000rpm and makes really good power.

On the RB25 I think its a little small, especially when you consider they only make 220-230rwkw max. The stock turbo makes 190rwkw or with an adj. cam gear maybe 200 depending on the dyno.

Bare minimum on the rb25 I would go the 2535. 240rwkw is fairly decent for the outlay.

Comparing the rb20 to a 25 is like comparing a dyno graph of a 25 to a 30. :D

You are right, the 25/35 would be a better match with that engine.

well i think i'll definately want 1x GT35r with the .82 housing so thats $1900 ??

and i may also want a 1.06 exhaust housing for the GT35r (my current one has .82) $ ??

if you want you can PM me more details or a contact number :D

Cheers

Dave

I will be speaking to him tomorrow (Friday)

$1900 is correct for the Garrett GT35R.

He is getting back to me about the exhaust housing.

On another seperate matter. The T04's that I was talking about earlier for someone, he will be giving me an answer tomorrow also. He has been away in Perth for a few days so I haven't been able to contact him.

I have a contact who owns a very reputable TURBO business. They took over from Turbotorque around 3-4 months ago. I am getting VERY good prices for ALL turbos. I can pretty much get anything you want and to suit whatever. Prices are usually discounted by around $500 from retail so there are some massive savings to be had. Please post if anyone is interested.

EG. I just bought me 450hp Ball bearing turbo for a little over $1000. Retail on this particular one is over $2000 so you get the picture.

If there is enough of an interest I will see if he will give further discount for a group buy, however, a group buy is not essential. Sau members will receive further discount on top. These prices are NOT fitted. This will only put the turbo in your hand, or trailer - depending on how large you go.

where bouts u located.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...