Jump to content
SAU Community

Link Engine Management

Spook's_Skyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

33SOM Experienced

33SOM

Posted
Posted

My Link was bout $1100 without hand controller. Its a plug in but you gotta put link gear in factory ecu case. (Stealth) :P I friend has one in his STI and it runs perfectly. But as I said to you b4 mine hasnt been tuned yet so I cant really comment.

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted

I have a LINK ecu in my 32 gtst.

I've had no problems what-so-ever apart from mechanics 'claiming' they can tune it, when they know fcuk all and screwed my car completely.

So be weary.

The two workshops that have tuned my car with success is Amberley Autos and AVO.

I have a severe problem at the moment with it though, as i am building another 32 gtst and have put the ecu into my new car, and i am MISSING the LINK map sensor !!! :D

Its weird, the r32 GTR LINK ecu, will run on the factory nissan map sensor, but the r32 gtst requires a LINK map sensor.

AVO have no more map sensors, and they dont know when they will be getting anymore... so this is stressing me out big time.

The only down side, is that the handcontroller has limited read out information i.e. only 1 line screen.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Ive searched and found bugger all threads on link engine management

Yes, there is a reason for that

but have been told they are the shiznit (no afm needed)

Brings me back to comment one.

If you aint seen many posts about something. Its hardly good.

If they were soo good everyone would be using them (such as a PowerFC)

Get a PFC and do yourself a favour

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted
If you aint seen many posts about something. Its hardly good.

If they were soo good everyone would be using them (such as a PowerFC)

Get a PFC and do yourself a favour

Ok, if your going to make a bold statement like that, you need to suggest/list some factual information here.

You are like 90% of the other posts on here that just go with 'the flow'

"Everyone Else Is Doing It, So It MUST Be Good !"

And thats the biggest crock of sh1t, and i hate reading peoples posts who have no actual idea what they are talking about, they just post what other people do.

List me some factual information for and against LinkECUs.

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted
Sorry a was referring to your comment about the hand controller. Wasn't sure if you knew about the PClink stuff.  

At the same time I guess a laptop in the car all the time is hardly convenient.

Adam

hehe, yeah i was merely comparing the handcontroller to a Wolf3D handcontroller or a PFC handcontroller which give you a range of information on the one screen.

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted

Link have just brought out a few new products including a new ECU.

I know a lot of people using it as well as a few people who work for Link.

Like any ECU it's all about the tuner.

I have had bad luck with previous LINK computers and bad tuners.. and good luck with PowerFC and it working from just being plugged in.

If you have a good tuner that likes LINK, then it will work fine. Might be worth trying out LINKs new products.

IMACUL8 Veteran

IMACUL8

Posted
Posted

Link is a "average" ECU.

For its price it is good - but compared to other ECU's its .... crap.

I had a link in my WRX ad it was good for what it cost me.

In regard to fuel point and ignition points for tunablity its crap compared to Motec, Autronics and even Apexi. It also lacks fuel correction for air temp, full throttle, closed throttle etc,,,

Link is crap - dont awaste your time or money - keep saving for a better ecu.

Check out the ECU Matrix here at Perth WRX - shows you a great comparison between the ecu's

http://web3.bekkers.com.au/~pwrx/phpBB2/vi...opic.php?t=6121

Daniel

Spook's_Skyline Mentor

Spook's_Skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
List me some factual information for and against LinkECUs.

yes, im more interested in fact as well

the more i look into them, the better they sound, im just wondering why more people arent using them

IMACUL8 Veteran

IMACUL8

Posted
Posted

The thing with the link - and i really noticed it compared to my mates wrx with a motec m800 is drivability really is worlds apart.

Because the motec has so many load points the tuning ability is miles ahead.

Smoother driving, etc all very noticable. But the way you could really tell is in first gear my mate can take his 98 wrx upto about 80/85km (has a holinger dogbox) - and then take his foot straight off the peddle - and the car would smoothly decellaratedown in revs and speed with suck utter smoothness - i was amazing. Take my link ecu wrx up to 70 and take foot of in first and it would roughly come down and hive you that inital jerk ...

Miles apart.

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted
The thing with the link - and i really noticed it compared to my mates wrx with a motec m800 is drivability really is worlds apart.

Because the motec has so many load points the tuning ability is miles ahead.

Smoother driving, etc  all very noticable.  But the way you could really tell is in first gear my mate can take his 98 wrx upto about 80/85km (has a holinger dogbox) - and then take his foot straight off the peddle - and the car would smoothly decellaratedown in revs and speed with suck utter smoothness - i was amazing.  Take my link ecu wrx up to 70 and take foot of in first and it would roughly come down and hive you that inital jerk ...

Miles apart.

This is something i notice straight away, and it really tells the story as to whether a car has been tuned properly for driveability.

i NEVER had this issue with my LINK when it was tuned properly.

One thing that rings true though is that my car chews through fuel, and runs extremely rich.

But thats fine by me, last thing i want is the thing running lean... i cant expect a car with 300+rwhp to be decent on fuel. :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...