Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys

Iam in desperate need of help.

I got a NA r34 rb25de NEO

Basically last few weeks the check engine was coming on

So i took it to several places, where they ran diagnostic, everyone gave me different answers.

N e way i decided to take it to Unique Auto Sports, great guys there. Now they ran a diagnostics, they first thought it was the Crank Angle Sensor. Fair enough, i ordered a BRAND NEW CAS from japan for $680. Got it replaced(labour;$80), but the issue still remained. Took it to Unique Auto Sports again, the ran thru testing the whole day, but couldnt find the problem . In the end they gave me sure possibility thats its the ECU. OK so i payed them $680 for labour and iam still where i started from. In the end the CAS wasnt the problem. So there goes my $680. Also cyclinders 4 and 5 dont always work, and the car is rough(sounds like a rexy). They say is the ECU thats at cause or sending bad signals. They did all test possible and everything else was ok.

Now they recommended i get a computer from another NA R34 and test it on mine. Unique Auto are willing to do the swap and test for free. So guys all iam asking is for a helping hand for someone to let me use thier ECU on my car to see if my ECU is at fault, thats all. Iam even willing to compensate a little for all your troubles. Please i really need your HELP!

MANY THANKS!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/
Share on other sites

i took my car to Unique Auto Sports, my car was running shit as...they assured me it was the coil packs even offered them to me for $900, wow so cheap. Anyway i bought em my self for $600. It didnt even touch my problem, so $600 dollars later + there dyno fee i was left with nothing...

I found the problem, guess what it was, one of the knock sensor plugs wasnt plugged in, how much did that cost me??? NOTHING!!!!!!!!

THANKS HEAPS GUYS!!!!!!

Seriously dude, search on here for ure problem u may be suprised at wat u find. Its wat i should have done first and saved a shit load of money...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1239780
Share on other sites

They sound like bad mechanics to me.

Just substituting parts that they guessed were the fault. (Like a backyarder mech)

A real mech, could throw it up on the scope and check the sensor without just guessing.

Same with the rest of it.

Have they thouroughly checked the wiring loom?

Unusual for an ecu to shit itself.

Sounds like they are really guessing and have no idea to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1239905
Share on other sites

Start checking your coil packs, spark plugs and injector plugs. The coils and injectors may bring on the light. They will cause a rough REX idle also. If you pull out all the plugs you should be able to see what's going on. Plugs are like a book, they can tell you the whole story.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1239935
Share on other sites

ok well this is just my experiance with vehicle electrical systems being in the trade and all

time and time again we do so many diagnostic checks on cars that customers bring in sayin what is wrong with it and what not we do our checks on a vehicle that is appearing to run ok. Now you have two choices to make send the car out after charging a small fee for you time and make them aware that no apparent fault was found BUT and i make this BUT very clear you vehicle may break down so that fault can not be blamed back on us . we also say the minute its giving trouble to bring it straight in so we can get a clear understanding of the problem because when a customer says my car is runnin rough it can mean many things,electrical,mechanical or fuel system roughness just because its fuel injected doesnt neccessarily make it a deffinet electrical problem

Now the second option we can take is contact customer give them your previous problems you have had with that model car and suggest that we can replace possible problem or regular faulting parts but cannot guarantee that will fix the problem

so i beleive what UAS did was listen to the symptons go on previous jobs done and replace what i could be

now with you vehicle could be a number of things :

wiring - including plugs to injectors,coil packs,igniter if you have one a dodgy terminal can cause a shit load of searching for!!

individual coils??

this business is a difficult one to locate problems in electric/electronics

and with many jobs we have done too the customer has to wear the cost of previous parts fitted it is just this trade makes problem finding difficult because ecus have a mind of there own when the play up and dont play up

also half the ecu diagnoses crap that the ecu puts its is not even relevant to the problem so i dunno

that is just my two cents worth may piss u off but thats just how i see your dilema

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1239937
Share on other sites

Thank you guys for all your input.

Unique Auto did all the checks under books as they said. Put it this way, i gave them the car at 930am and i left with the car at 530pm. I was there the whole day, thinking it would only take a few hours tops. Im not too mechanically minded, but i know they changed the spark plugs they tested the coils, they checked voltage on the signals, wiring and so forth. They did vigourous testing as i saw it, but then again who knows.

Thanks guys i really do appreciate your opinions and ideas. Im not sure if this issue is a serious or just a minor.

Any ideas what else i can do, where i can go. How bout the ECU testing part, is it worth testing with another 1. If one of you guys can lend me a hand.

THanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1239959
Share on other sites

ECU fault finding is like tip of an iceberg cos it only gives you an idea of that it really is

take ignition singal fault for example. if it detects any misses in current to any of the coil packs it would be the coils or the transistors to the coils, something not adding up right and the ECU will flag it

as far as CAS goes. if it doesnt work the car wont run. basically its as simple as that, it has an optic sensor inside with a disc with small slits in it that spins heaps fast. they get too hot and start to crack etc and then they just die. then the car doesn't even run at all cos it doesn't get the right signals - so you know when they go.

putting voltmeter/cro on it and then working tracing out the problem is the only way to diagnose. swapping parts is just guessing. i wouldnt pay someone unless they actually fixed the problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1240024
Share on other sites

yes you are right, i should have only paid for a working solution to the problem. Thats my bad, which ill remember in the future. Just out of curiousity, is there any legal issues regarding this type of service. Like i said, $680 was paid for part which didnt need replacing, also labour cost which dint fix anything.

Now the ECU was giving a Primary ignition signal error, hope that helps also.

THANKS!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1240075
Share on other sites

Just an insight on the problem.

In the morning the car starts normal after about a minute, the engine light comes on. But the car still runs fine. After driving for 2 - 3min the car starts running rough, sounds like a rexy. From what the mechanics told me that is because the car is not running on all six's. They did test to prove that.

Any way after driving for a further 5 - 10min the car starts running normal again, and also sounds and drives normal. Though the engine light still remains on. Same error Primary ignition signal.

Mayb this clears up a few doubts or makes the understanding a more clear

THANKS PPL!!!!

btw the feedback you guys are giving is really appreciating, more than i could have asked for. :D. Also im from SYD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1240125
Share on other sites

i know exactley how you feel...

its like they are doing guess work, oh well we must both look like rich suckers...haha

but seriously if you are ever gonna dyno your car or do stuff with the ecu i cant recommend enough Adam @ J.E.M. (Just Engine Management). He pointed me in the right direction with my car, i took his advice and i fixed the problem 2 days later...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1240147
Share on other sites

hey just reading your post romeo if you are getting a code fault for signal to coil packs it sound like you possibly may have a broken wire in the harness that go to the coils it gets real hot in there and electrical wires perrish . the other thing is bad connection to coils or coil pack insulation is leaking spark to test this remove plastic cover get a piece of wire and connect one end to battery negative and strip other end to bear wire aprox 10mm back and run it around the coil insulation while engine running you will see a spark jump and it may drop a cylinder when spark tracs to wire if this happens its a bad coil replace it.Also do you not have nissan agent in aust. they should be your best bet as they will have factory san tool which will tell them alot more information unlike ob2 scan tools they are only a guide and very common to local mechanics hope this helps you as i dont think its your ecu unless you have shorted or something you havent had welding done on it with the battery connected this is a good ecu killer good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1241288
Share on other sites

unreal.....Do an onboard check to decode the ECU...then find out the relevent code and backprobe the loom to check the circuit....get your hands on a wiring diagram....If you dont want to spend anymore money,decode it first then post back hear your findings and i will see what i can chase up in the way of wiring...to decode it locate the small plastic door underneath the steering column,inside you will see a connector stuck to the other side of it...take a digi pic of the plug and post it up and i will circle the wires which you need to bridge out to extract the code

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66644-ecu-problem/#findComment-1241345
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...