Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the cheapest type of sound deadner is called "brownbread' there is a similar product which is heaps cheaper called flashtac i beleive, you can get it from your local hardware. put at least two layers of it and you will notice a huge improvement. I also reccomend you stuffing your doors with dacron to get rid of some of the resonance, it will sound alot better and wont add too much weight.

-Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/671-audio-install-pics/#findComment-17496
Share on other sites

Kenwood PS911 head unit, top of the line in 2000, no speaker outputs on it, only 4V RCA's x 6

3 x Kicker amps

35W x 2 running 6x4" Kicker coaxials in the rear

65W x2 running 6" Kicker splits in the front

125W x2 running 2xMTX Thunder 8 Ohm Subs

Kenwood auxillary imput unit that runs two stackers and aux into the head unti.

Auxillary sound coming from Toshiba LCD screen and TV tuner in custom mount. Clarion TV antannae

Steering wheel remote.

Being a sedan and the way the subs are positioned and being a sealed box, it only pulls about 135DB.

I think thats it?

It's all for sale.

Make an offer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/671-audio-install-pics/#findComment-19482
Share on other sites

Myself and a friend.

That box is 3 cubic feet underneath.

With nothing in the boot, I can sit in it and my head doesn't touch the parcel shelf.

Mind you I'm only 5'6"

I'll be starting on my Skyline next week.

Either full audio visual setup, TV/DVD/DTS/5.1 setup

or

Just a modest headunit and neat boot.

Can't make up my mind?

I don't need to go doof doof doof any more to get people to look at my ride :)

What'ya reckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/671-audio-install-pics/#findComment-19491
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Mud

I'll be starting on my Skyline next week.

Either full audio visual setup, TV/DVD/DTS/5.1 setup

or

Just a modest headunit and neat boot.

Can't make up my mind?

I don't need to go doof doof doof any more to get people to look at my ride ;)

What'ya reckon?

what's your budget and whats your sound preference?

i think in a skyline, modest HU and neat boot is an idea, help not invite the wrong kind of attention (from thieves)

i'd say a nakamichi CD45z HU (looks bland, great thief deterance but awesome sound quality with 24-bit DAC) running 2x12s in the boot (what you prefer) 3-way splits in the front in pods, woofer in the doors, 2-way co-ax's or splits in the rears.

4-channel for the front/rear fill (or 6-chan to run the front fully active :uh-huh: )

or dual 2-chans for the front/rear and a monobloc for the subs.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/671-audio-install-pics/#findComment-19859
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...