Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rms is irrelevent.

Al is correct. You need to build a box with the specified volume from the manufacturer. It will sound like crap with the wrong size box. Not all 12" subs require the same volume.

If I may be so bold I might just pull you up on that comment champ.

When I design enclosures for subwoofers the T/S specs are not the only thing that I use in th PC. Power availability does have a huge impact on the design of the enclosure, as does the size of the car, the volume desired and the music styles listened too.

The most peculiar thing is that once the enclosure has been designed it often is no where near the recommended size. This is because many manufacturers often recommend the safest enclosure volume for minimal returns rather than the absolute best performing enclosure. :(

Just wanted to get that out. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67291-size-for-box/#findComment-1259167
Share on other sites

39 leters is about the average size these days for a seald box as most subs for cars are, a seald box will allways make a sub produce more power. but on the other hand a ported or somtimes larger box will give the sub a nicer tone or note but is not done very often in cars as when you drive most of what you hear will be DOF! DOF! DOF! most peple in there teens or mid 20s dont realy care to much for tone as they prefer max volume - "if its to loud, your to old!"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67291-size-for-box/#findComment-1267972
Share on other sites

hey just gonna pull you up on a few points there mate....

39 leters is about the average size these days for a seald box as most subs for cars are, a seald box will allways make a sub produce more power.

no, a sealed sub box will not produce more power. neither sub, nor enclosure will produce any power increase.

but on the other hand a ported or somtimes larger box will give the sub a nicer tone or note but is not done very often in cars as when you drive most of what you hear will be DOF! DOF! DOF! most peple in there teens or mid 20s dont realy care to much for tone as they prefer max volume - "if its to loud, your to old!"

ported/bandpass enclosures don't necessarily give a sub a nicer tone. in "most" instances, ported enclosures are used to optimise the output at or between certain frequencies. this is why you'll find most serious spl competitors using vented boxes and, lets be frank, most spl cars sound like ass when it comes to linearity and natural reproduction. vented boxes don't sound "nicer" in most respects either. while there are many drivers that sound lovely in the right ported/vented alignment, sealed designs usually offer much higher transient response (tightness/punch/impact/whatever adjective you like to use).

on one other note there, you're right in that increasing a sealed enclosure's volume will decrease Q (improve the sound.. sometimes). having said that, you shouldn't take a driver that sounds crap in a 30l enclosure and put it in a 100l box and hope it sounds good...

/end rant :)

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67291-size-for-box/#findComment-1270007
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

it is a known fact that a seld sab will always handel more power than a venteted one becouse the air in the box will pull the sub back faster than a ported so it dosent distort if you turn up the volume that little bit higher.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67291-size-for-box/#findComment-1339736
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...