Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

my first time in a skyline was about 3 yrs ago.... my mates mate was picking us up from school although it was non-turbo still felt like it went and the sound was great. then last year i was looking at buying a car and took this 32 GTS-t for a drive and loved it ended up being it.

now i have a love/hate relationship with it, when something isnt working or goes wrong i hate it but then wen a nice cool day comes along and i give it a boot my :huh: turns into a :(

funny enough my first ride a skyline was with a chick i picked up at a club,

she called me to come pick me up and what do i see

she rocks up in a 11sec gtr,

that thing was insane now i own my very own beast and only death will part me from a gtr LMAO

Owned an Australian delivered Toyota Starlet....yes the 1.3litre variety! Then brought a NA Supra 93 model....had fun but not enough! Took a ride in mates R33 GTR with N1s, twin HKS BOVS....speed and sound brought my sole.......out went the Toyota and in came a black R33 GTST....light mods....does not match the awesome sound of GTR............out went R33...in came R34 GTT with full nismo options..........had a blast..............still hungry for more..........didn't muck around this time...........in came the final fling....the R34 GTR VSPEC now with twin GTRS huffers..........got the sound, the speed, and the look.

Not exactly a skyline, but a Nissan turbo none the less..

My first taste of boost..

I had been on the lookout for a neat datsun 1600 for a while.. FJ20 powered would have been the ultimate, but alas my bank account didn't agree with such a proposition.. Until I had a call from a mate who mentioned a certain FJ20ET powered 1600 was up for grabs. I knew the car and had drooled over it previously in the flesh.. No way it would be in my price bracket... "He only wants 6k for it"
:):O

Next day my mate drives me down to the guys place, I have a quick snoop around, front mount, BOV, Haltech, monster tach with a couple of other gauges and all in all very good condition for a 30+ year old car. Koni adjustables and lowered springs. He starts it up and with a little puff of smoke the mighty FJ20 is quietly rumbling away. "Wanna go for a quick run?" I awkwardly snuggle into the nice little black Aerotech bucket (matching pair) and click the buckle on the harness.

We pull off slowly to the first set of lights. "It's still a bit wet so I won't be able to show you what she's really got" (It had rained earlier and the road was about 70-80% dry).. Lights green.. we pull off revs building and for a split second I remember thinking "Shouldn't it be faster than this?"...... Then BANG after 4k all hell breaks loose!! the locked diff clambers for grip as the car steps out as he changes slightly early into second. I'm pushed backward into the seat, car squats a bit and feels like we are about to take off! Sideways wheels still spinning he backs off a bit to try regain grip.. Third comes with some wheelspin then slingshot into 4th momentarily where a corner stops our progression.

:O
HOLY SHIT I'M IN LOVE.. One of the best feelings for me to date.. Negotiated the price down to 5k and tell him I'll be back with cash ASAP... Unfortunatly I was fair amount short of that figure at the time, came back to him a couple of weeks later with the full amount but it was sold.... Absolutely devostated!!! Oh well I would probably be dead or a paraplegic if I had aquired such a vehicle at 17 years of age.. Still hurts to this day though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...